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Triple Stromberg and GP exhaust manifold install

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  • Triple Stromberg and GP exhaust manifold install

    The triple ZS is debatable as to being an upgrade, but I think we can agree the Goodparts header is. Last year when I rebuilt the engine I had thought about putting a header on but elected not to. Partly due to cost. Partly due to "what's the point?" Still going to be a slow car even with the header. Well, I went to TRials last year and got bit by the Triple ZS bug. Which led to "while I'm in there-itis." If I;m doing the triple carbs, might as well due the GP header. The GP header says that I will have to trim the exhaust because the stock exhaust will be too long. So that turned into having to remove the entire exhaust. And that turned into "Might as well remove the driveshaft and have it balanced" since I did not do that two years ago when I had to put in a new u-joint. And I'm chasing a vibration at speed that will probably necessitate new wheels but I might as well diagnose the problem and maybe i will get lucky and save some money (hah!!) by balancing the drive shaft (sorry, prop shaft.)

    Mission creep has set in. But, to the pictures!

    Intake and exhaust manifolds removed a few weeks ago. Winter came back so that slowed things down. A little rust popped up so some scrubbing with WD40 and a dish pad ensued. The starter motor has been removed and if anyone else is doing this, do yourself a favor and put in a modern hi-torque one. I think changing a starter with a triple carb could rank as a no fun day.
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    I had to enlarge the manifold gasket with a Dremel. Thanks for that tip 6-Pack.

    This is where I am right now. and stopped for the day. This is definitely one of those "Alls ya do... "projects. It has taken much more time and money than I thought it would. The project has grown and the budget is busted. My Falcon stainless exhaust that I bought last year has an OD of 1 5/8"
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    GoodParts header is 1 3/4"

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    Did I mention the budget for this project is busted? And speaking of busted. Falcon Stainless exhaust installed on 9/17
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    Who knew stainless steel rusted?

    Finished the day with this

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    1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

    1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

  • #2
    I have also gone with the triple ZS carbs and Richard's header. I also installed a Phoenix big bore exhaust. As you can see, I have quite a bit of work left before I can enjoy it but I am plugging along with the restoration. Hope to be able to start it this summer😊
    1972 TR6 - Restoration in work

    Comment


    • #3
      That's a good looking build you have there.
      1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

      1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks, it is taking some time but I think it will all be worth it once I get it on the road.
        1972 TR6 - Restoration in work

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        • #5
          Originally posted by GDaniels View Post
          I have also gone with the triple ZS carbs and Richard's header. I also installed a Phoenix big bore exhaust. As you can see, I have quite a bit of work left before I can enjoy it but I am plugging along with the restoration. Hope to be able to start it this summer😊
          Damn - that motor looks like a piece of art - I'd never start it in case I got it dirty!
          Dave C
          '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
          Chapel Hill NC

          Comment


          • #6
            It’s got RACING gears 😀. Very nice. Love to see the car when it’s finished
            So much rust, so little time

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks, I hope to get it painted this summer. Still have some work to do on the tub before I put it back on the chassis but that will hopefully be soon.
              1972 TR6 - Restoration in work

              Comment


              • #8
                Moving along slowly. Especially since winter is here for the next week. But I got the starter motor back in. The top bolt can be a pain to get in. I've worked on other cars where I could just reach up from underneath and put the bolt in place. But not on my car for some reason.

                So I used a flexible magnet. I had to bend it a few different directions but was able to get it in after a few tries.

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                1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

                1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

                Comment


                • #9
                  When I put in my high torque starter I wrestled with those nuts. I swore the next time I was going g to device some sore of captive nut or threaded arrangement but so far, I haven’t had to go back down there.
                  I72 Pimento w/overdrive

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                  • #10
                    The last time I replaced a starter on my 73 TR6 I was prepared for the situation, having dealt with it once or twice in the past on my 74.
                    I inserted a bolt into that starters top hole and J/B welded it's head in place...more or less making it a stud. Hanging from the 'stud' I fastened the lower mount, then because I had made an access port in the transmission tunnel, opened it and threaded a nut onto the 'stud'.
                    Here's the cover..the rear port is for U-joint greasing. Click image for larger version

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                    Last edited by poolboy; 03-01-2019, 05:05 PM.
                    Driving a 1973 TR6
                    Doing ZS carb repairs
                    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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                    • #11
                      I got back at it today. The prop shaft was balanced and straightened by a local company. I reinstalled that first and let's hope it eliminates my vibration.

                      Then on to the manifolds


                      There was a little interference between the GP header and GP intake so I did some grinding,
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                      This proved futile so more power was applied.

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                      Then putting in new studs.

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                      And then checking them for straightness

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                      I'm about a 1/32 low in front but good across the faces

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                      I'm stopping for the night but will pick it back up tomorrow.
                      1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

                      1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hmmm, I am following the GoodParts Instructions on the install, but I looked over at Paul's (I think his name is Paul) website and see that he put the carbs on the manifold before he put them onto the engines. Thoughts from anyone who has done this?

                        http://www.74tr6.com/triplecarbinstall.htm
                        1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

                        1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Turns out the middle carb was high. I laid a straight edge over the carbs and loosened the bolts to the center carb. AS I tightened the top nut I could feel it pull the manifold up and out of alignment. The solution was to simply tighten the bottom nuts then the top.

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                          The factory rear coolant hose can be reused.

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                          YOu will have to make one for the front

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                          Richard Good's instructions for the throttle linkage is "Bend the ends of the linkage and achieve a spacing of 6 3/4"......" What does he mean by bend the ends? I have enlarged the holes, but I am a long way from 6 3/4"

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                          Phil sent me a picture of his linkage and it looks like all he did was enlarge the holes. Anyone have any suggestions? This is an early linkage and the pictures I see online and also Phil's are later linkages. Any suggestions other than RATCO?



                          Last edited by skootch13; 03-10-2019, 02:11 PM.
                          1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

                          1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            So...recalling my own time with the triple kit:

                            1) As it relates to using the standard linkage, which I used initially, I decided that elongating the holes would result in the ends being too thin. So, I cut one of the tabs and re-welded slightly offset it so that it then fit the holes precicesly. That may be a good option if you can weld, or have someplace that can do it for you.

                            2) However...while the stock linkage worked OK...I ended up making my own cable linkage - think I may have mentioned this to you previously. It was *so* much better in operation than the modified "Rube Goldberg" stock linkage - I thoroughly recommend going that approach, or investing in the RATCO, if you don't fancy "rolling your own". Here's a pic of the bracket used to mount the cable, mounted to the rear and middle carbs.
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                            3) As you know from the instructions, getting perfectly straight alignment of the throttle shafts is critical to getting smooth and consistent response from the carbs when applying the accelerator. I ended up doubling up the gaskets between the carbs and the manifold, so that there was some extra "squish" so that you could adjust them all by tightening/loosening the mounting nuts. I cut my gaskets from a sheet of thick gasket material I got from Autozone or someplace - here is a pic - I used the Good Parts insulators as you can see below:
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                            4) Another thing I did after I'd completed the installation and run with it a while is replace the stock flexible couplings (which you see in the picture above) with the Good Parts HD couplings, which are much stiffer. Provided you have the alignment of the three carb spot on, fitting the HD couplings ensured that the set up would return to the desired idle rpm after releasing the accelerator. Some people experience some challenges in getting that to happen, and it's almost always due to some mis-aligment in the linkage, as well as some flexibility in the couplings. The HD couplings fixed that issue (as Richard indicated they would).

                            Keep going - you'll get there!
                            Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 CC66559U
                            10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I knew it. Thanks Keith. I wonder why some people can get it to work and others can't? There is no way mine would work. As for the rigid couplers, seems like half the people have your experience and half say you have to use the flexible couplers. Also, good tip on stacking the gaskets to give some crush space for alignment.

                              Finally, why are the manifolds in three pieces? Why can't they be cast as one? Indy race is over and I'm back to the garage.
                              1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

                              1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

                              Comment

                              Triple Stromberg and GP exhaust manifold install

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