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Calibrate Fuel Gauge Sender?

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  • Calibrate Fuel Gauge Sender?

    I had to replace my OE fuel tank after it rotted inside even after going thru the removal and commercial inner coating routine not long after I got the TR. I wanted an upsized tank and went with the Danielson-Boyd Custom 15 gal. tank and simply plugged the original sending unit back in. When the Fuel gauge hits E, I still have 4-5 gals in the tank. Finally got the urge to better tune that feedback and wondering if anyone knows a way or options on how to do this??
    72 CC84337 UO

  • #2
    Hum, interesting question. I would think that you want to keep the same full range on the variable resistor sender so the approach I would take is extending the rod the float is on if it's possible so that the float sits on bottom when the tank is empty. Interested to see what other Boyd tank owners have done other than to know they have 4 more gallons = XX miles when it reaches E
    I72 Pimento w/overdrive

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    • #3
      Don't have that tank, but if it is taller top to bottom, then what you need is a longer arm on the sender. It needs to be the right length so that the top and bottom of the arc reach the top and bottom of the tank. This is something to be fixed 'mechanically' rather that electronically.


      oops... Lou beat me to it. Should have read his post closer first...
      1973 TR6 – BRG with beige interior, custom LED lighting
      Hardtop, OD, Rollbar, 15”Koenigs
      Bored, balanced and polished motor with Kastner/TSI S2 Cam
      Header, custom exhaust, custom alternator, e-fan
      Lowered, poly suspension, Konis and rear anti roll-bar
      www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Festus View Post
        I had to replace my OE fuel tank after it rotted inside even after going thru the removal and commercial inner coating routine not long after I got the TR. I wanted an upsized tank and went with the Danielson-Boyd Custom 15 gal. tank and simply plugged the original sending unit back in. When the Fuel gauge hits E, I still have 4-5 gals in the tank. Finally got the urge to better tune that feedback and wondering if anyone knows a way or options on how to do this??
        By bending the fuel sending gauge arm down (don't remember how much as it took several tries) my 15 gal. tank now shows "E" when there is approx. two gallons in the tank. I was never comfortable in seeing how far below the empty mark I could drive, so when the needle reached the "E" I stopped and it took almost 13 gal. to fill it to the bottom of the neck. The down side to this is the float does bounce a bit and sounds off when any change in direction occurs. I keep saying to myself to carry a can of gas in the trunk and let the tank run empty, just to see how far the needle would drop past the "E". Never have yet...

        Dick

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        • #5
          I've been using this device for several years: https://technoversions.com/MeterMatchHome.html
          It may take a few tanks of gas to fully get everything calibrated, but it works pretty well, no matter how out of whack your gauge or sender are, or how big your fuel tank is. It's pretty easy to install, too.

          1976 TR6 Tahiti Blue CF57017U, original owner

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          • #6
            Originally posted by ajbola View Post
            I've been using this device for several years: https://technoversions.com/MeterMatchHome.html
            It may take a few tanks of gas to fully get everything calibrated, but it works pretty well, no matter how out of whack your gauge or sender are, or how big your fuel tank is. It's pretty easy to install, too.
            That is pretty cool and well worth not having to take the tank and sender out in my opinion. Should work for temp gauge as well for those that don’t like where their needle sits. Thanks for sharing
            I72 Pimento w/overdrive

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            • #7
              You guys are right - it's a mechanical problem. When the gas drops to or below E the needle starts to bounce and shake - just kinda rattling around with no fuel supporting the float.Probably going to damage the sender if I let it run that way too often while I try to use that extra fuel capacity. I have pulled out a yard stick to get a dipstick read on occasion when I couldn't recall how far I have run the car. It's an electro-mechanical problem though in as much as it begs for a new sending unit design. Maybe something like a vertical float motion. I'm beginning to remember what a chore it is to get the tank in and out so as to get to the sending unit and the thought of trial and error process does dampen my original enthusiasm
              72 CC84337 UO

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              • #8
                You don’t need to pull the tank out to replace the sender. Loosen up the clamps holding the filler cap. Pull the cap. You’ll need to muscle the filler hose out...probably the hardest part. Then Remove all the bolts that hold it & rock the tank back toward you. You’ll have enough room to get the sender out
                So much rust, so little time

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ajbola View Post
                  I've been using this device for several years: https://technoversions.com/MeterMatchHome.html
                  It may take a few tanks of gas to fully get everything calibrated, but it works pretty well, no matter how out of whack your gauge or sender are, or how big your fuel tank is. It's pretty easy to install, too.
                  Thanks for posting this gismo....may be worth a try.

                  Cheers,

                  Wolf
                  76 TR6 CF58170UO (The Lady)
                  72 TR6 CC80068UO (The Slut)
                  68 TR250 CD4893L (retirement project)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by tr250 View Post
                    You don’t need to pull the tank out to replace the sender. Loosen up the clamps holding the filler cap. Pull the cap. You’ll need to muscle the filler hose out...probably the hardest part. Then Remove all the bolts that hold it & rock the tank back toward you. You’ll have enough room to get the sender out
                    I recall having to remove the roof top and frame, and the inside trunk/cockpit panel to get to the bolts for installing the Boyd tank. I had done what you are saying with the original tank a few times though.
                    72 CC84337 UO

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                    • #11
                      Ah didn’t catch you had a different tank
                      So much rust, so little time

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                      • #12
                        Bob needs to weigh in on this. I thought that he changed the sender orientation and one of the baffles to facilitate the sending unit installation. Where the float comes to rest when it reaches the bottom of the travel, is where you will get E. Similarly, at top of range is full. In either case, there may be more tank to go at those points. IE, the the float doesn't come off full up position until the tank level falls to that point (which could be a gallon or two depending on how Bob figured it out). Same at bottom of range. The stock tank is tapered in profile and has the sender oriented left to right for swing of the float. The float is slightly off center (left to right). All of this effects float motion with fuel level, fuel sloshing while extended cornering in one direction, and fore/aft slosh.

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                        Calibrate Fuel Gauge Sender?

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