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  • Garage heater

    With winter coming on, I think I'm going to finally retire my old beat-up kerosene torpedo heater and put in a nice clean electric heater like this one: https://www.menards.com/main/heating...268-c-6328.htm

    Couple questions though:

    1) Do people think this would do a decent job of heating a 2 car garage provided the temps are reasonable (at least above 25F degrees)
    2) 220 V 32 Amp, I assume I should budget for having an electrician come out and put another breaker in my breaker box for this

    Any thoughts would be appreciated
    73 TR6
    Libertyville, IL
    My TR6

  • #2
    Hi Phil,

    i am am running a cheap floor model 5000 W electric heater that is a 240 V plug in. I had the electrician come and put an outlet in and hook it up to the box.
    I try and insulate my doors at least on the sides so it is less drafty. My walls and ceiling are insulated ( my bedroom is above the garage). This heater has no problems keeping the garage about 5 C/40 F the entire winter no matter how cold it gets outside (and it gets cold). If I want to work out there I can easily get it up to 15 C/60 F after a few hours of running. Having said that. It is expensive to run. It can add about 200-300 per month to my hydro bill. Again, I think it's going to depend on how much insulation you have or in your case, if I recall, you have ceiling issues...

    cheers
    Tush
    81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8
    73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
    62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
    60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks and Yes, I have ceiling issues...as in I don't have one. Nothing but 2x4 rafters with no insulation.

      That said, I don't plan to heat it full time. More likely when I plan to work I'll turn it on a bit before I plan to work. The car will be in storage for the coldest part of the year anyway (Dec-Feb) so I'm anticipating upper thirties minimum.
      73 TR6
      Libertyville, IL
      My TR6

      Comment


      • #4
        I'd sister on 2x2" to the 2x4 rafters, then put in 6" faced fiberglass. Reasonably priced at Lowe's or Home Depot

        Cheers,

        Kevin
        76 TR6 CF58170UO (The Lady)
        72 TR6 CC80068UO (The Slut)
        68 TR250 CD4893L (retirement project)

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Wolf76STL View Post
          I'd sister on 2x2" to the 2x4 rafters, then put in 6" faced fiberglass. Reasonably priced at Lowe's or Home Depot

          Cheers,

          Kevin
          Please check with Barb first though Phil

          Cheers
          Tush

          81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8
          73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
          62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
          60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO

          Comment


          • #6
            Not a bad idea Kevin, though 2x2 on 2x4 would only be 5 inches, not 6. However, even with 4" insulation batts I would think my ability to hold heat in would be dramatically improved.
            73 TR6
            Libertyville, IL
            My TR6

            Comment


            • #7
              I'll relate my experience, and you decide. I used to have a radiant natural gas heater in my 2 car garage. It was 30,000 Btu, and I would turn it on 30 - 45 minutes before I was going to work. I used a small fan to circulate the warmed air, and the garage was against the house walls on two sides.
              The ceiling was not insulated, but was 10' high and covered with drywall. The garage seemed warm enough to work, but laying on the floor or on my creeper, I could see my breath, and the floor was mighty cold. Not having heat in the garage all the time, everything in there was at ambient temperature,
              which in my case was probably in the 30's to 40's.
              I built a separate garage, and looked at my options. I was going to have electric service suitable for a welder, so I would have the capacity for an electric heater. Or, since I have natural gas in the house, I could run that in the trench. My garage is 20' square, with 8' walls and one 9' wide overhead door and one service door. The walls are insulated 3 1/2 " batts with 1" blue foam board on the outside under the siding. The ceiling is 12" fiberglass batts. I keep it at 58 degrees until I enter to work, and I am in the Des Moines, Iowa area. Our winter is, I think, something like 7000 heating degree days.
              The cost to heat is based on the fuel available, and as an example: a bill of mine shows 1101 kWh for $135.15, which is $36.04/ million Btu. My gas bill was $17.09 for 12 Therms, which is $14.20/ million Btu. So, electricity is 2 1/2 times more expensive than electricity in a heating value basis. There is the
              additional consideration that my ceiling mounted heater is only ~80% efficient, so the difference in cost is closed to 2X. The Canadian and some parts of the US that benefit from hydro electric power would have a different outcome, and in some cases wouldn't have gas available in any case.
              If the garage were attached to the house, and the basement, if any, were unobstructed, running gas to a garage heater might be relatively easy. In my case, I had to run it underground, which was a bigger job.
              I sure wish i had a taller ceiling so I could have a lift!!
              Dennis

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks Dennis, what you describe in your old garage is similar to my experience today. In March/April if I turn on the torpedo heater 45-60 mins before I plan to work its warm enough but on the floor I can see my breath. I also have to deal with COLD tools.

                I'm actually reasonably OK with that except that the torpedo heater is such a pain. I have to drag it out every time I want to use it, I have to leave a window cracked, I worry about running it unattended, its loud, it smells, etc. With insulation in the roof and a decent electric heater I'm hoping not to have to make such a production of things every time I work in the garage.

                Wish I had room for a lift as well!
                73 TR6
                Libertyville, IL
                My TR6

                Comment


                • #9
                  I have propane for the cooktop in the kitchen. 120 gallon tank that gets filled once a year.
                  Added a garage heater to that. Cost was minimal and it doesn’t require a door or window to be opened. Works pretty well the few times I use it. If you have a gas source that may be an option.
                  I'm really not that interesting...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just a little note about insulation .

                    70 percent or of your heat loss is right straight up and out through the attic / roof.

                    The first R12 does more than the subsequent R20. So even if you just put in fibre glass cut for 2x4 on 16" centres, you will benefit.

                    Batt or blown in insulation does absolutely nothing to arrest air infiltration (i.e drafts). The breeze will just blow right through it. Stopping drafts requires a whole different set up. (Wraps, tape, vapour barrier, caulking etc.)

                    Spray foam will both insulate and stop drafts, but it is expensive and can be too air tight. (Believe it or not.)

                    When insulating attics, I tend to prefer batt insulation . 1 layer sized to suit between the joists and another layer as wide as possible laid at 90 degrees to the lower layer.

                    Always be as neat and snug as possible with batt insulation, but do not compress it. Compressing insulation takes away from its effectiveness . Insulation works by trapping air.

                    You also need good attic insulation .

                    A great website (and freaking huge) for the best construction details and methods is building science .

                    www.buildingscience.com


                    Last edited by ChandlerEast; 10-07-2018, 12:32 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have a similar type heater I paid less then $100 for from a farm type store. It has a thermostat on it and can be set to 3,000/4,000/5,000 watts. It heats our three car garage which is insulated fine. I use it to warm the garage to about 40 degrees in the winter to melt the snow off the car. The only drawback is the adjustments are on the front of the unit so if I hang it up high it would be tough to adjust. I have it sitting on the highest shelf of my metal storage rack and it works fine. I was told by my HVAC guy that it would be easy to hook it up to a wall thermostat. I am currently thinking of buying a couple of these for the pole barn I am finishing. I anticipate I will only be out in the barn once or twice a week and cannot justify radiant floor heat. I also have read about the mini split systems which if I had a smaller space and used it more, I might go that route. The appeal of AC for the hot times is of interest. You might want to look on garagejournal.com in the HVAC section as there is a lot of discussion about different heating options and the success or failure of them.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ChandlerEast View Post
                        Just a little note about insulation .

                        70 percent or of your heat loss is right straight up and out through the attic / roof.

                        The first R12 does more than the subsequent R20. So even if you just put in fibre glass cut for 2x4 on 16" centres, you will benefit.

                        Batt or blown in insulation does absolutely nothing to arrest air infiltration (i.e drafts). The breeze will just blow right through it. Stopping drafts requires a whole different set up. (Wraps, tape, vapour barrier, caulking etc.)

                        Spray foam will both insulate and stop drafts, but it is expensive and can be too air tight. (Believe it or not.)

                        When insulating attics, I tend to prefer batt insulation . 1 layer sized to suit between the joists and another layer as wide as possible laid at 90 degrees to the lower layer.

                        Always be as neat and snug as possible with batt insulation, but do not compress it. Compressing insulation takes away from its effectiveness . Insulation works by trapping air.

                        You also need good attic insulation .

                        A great website (and freaking huge) for the best construction details and methods is building science .

                        www.buildingscience.com

                        This is good advice, I agree.

                        Cheers,

                        Wolf
                        76 TR6 CF58170UO (The Lady)
                        72 TR6 CC80068UO (The Slut)
                        68 TR250 CD4893L (retirement project)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If you've got the coin, the best heating system would be a hydronic (hot water) in the concrete floor. That way, the floor warms up and the heat rises and the garage will be warm at floor level.

                          But you can't shut it off in the winter because the water will freeze and expand (though there may be some product on the market that prevents that, I dunno.)

                          Would be wonderful though and make working on your car on the floor a lot nicer in the winter.. But again, probably not worth the cost for your average guy.


                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I've been pricing oil to gas conversion of the house boiler along with a gas Modine Hot Dawg 45k unit heater in the garage. This will be for keeping the 3 car garage above freezing in the winter, while being able to warm it up if my son or I are working on our cars. The garage is insulated and sheet rocked, with insulated doors, and one common wall with the house. I hope to be up and running by Christmas.
                            Brian Cunningham
                            1973 CF4325U Overdrive has been added
                            "Liz's" Plate is: T-AH6

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by phil73 View Post
                              With winter coming on, I think I'm going to finally retire my old beat-up kerosene torpedo heater and put in a nice clean electric heater like this one: https://www.menards.com/main/heating...268-c-6328.htm

                              Couple questions though:

                              1) Do people think this would do a decent job of heating a 2 car garage provided the temps are reasonable (at least above 25F degrees)
                              2) 220 V 32 Amp, I assume I should budget for having an electrician come out and put another breaker in my breaker box for this

                              Any thoughts would be appreciated
                              If you just want more or less instant heat right above your immediate work (bench) area, a couple of halogen lamp fixtures does an adequate job. Got them either from Sears or Home Depot several years ago. Two halogen bulbs in each three foot unit.

                              Dick

                              Comment

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