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  • Dirty carbs. Help. Pool

    sitting here trying to decide to call Ken, or share publicly. I havent asked for help in a while. And im sure 2 weeks ago, there is a post on carbs that sat too long

    i shot my mouth off last week that while filthy, the school car runs like a bullet. Well obviously the car hasnt run in a while and longer than i realized

    gas in the tank smells like gas. The carbs dont. I pulled the tops and needles were gritty. Figured it was time to stop, get the works group out and get some advise.


  • #2
    I've rebuilt my carbs twice over the years and the car always ran (I thought) pretty well.

    Last spring I sent them to Ken for a rebuild and I can say the difference is astounding. In the 25 years I've owned the car it has never run more smoothly.

    You know where my vote is on rebuild yourself or having Ken do it
    73 TR6
    Libertyville, IL
    My TR6

    Comment


    • #3
      These are Ken carbs. I should have said. I realize my signature is gone.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks, Phil, comments like that is what keeps me going.
        .......
        God, how long ago was it that I rebuilt your carbs, Chris?
        You said "I pulled the tops and needles were gritty."
        Hard to say without seeing first hand but what you describe sounds like what the carbs sucked in because of excessive engine blowby..or the air filter hasn't been working.
        Anyway, something from outside found it's way inside.
        Last edited by poolboy; 10-19-2019, 05:58 PM.
        Driving a 1973 TR6
        Doing ZS carb repairs
        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

        Comment


        • #5
          I went back in my emails, and i think 2013. so 6 years. My oil change was overdue, so that was part of my roll out, tune up. Oil change complete, and the car started on full choke, ran for a bit, then rev'd up, and stalled - so, starve, lean, and then would start with a blast of gumout. its at this point, i pulled the pistons and noticed the gritty needles. I am going to pull the carbs today and inspect the bowls. I'm tempted to pull these, and swap again. let me know if you have a set ready to go.

          the blow by concerns me, but i'm not shocked on this motor. while strong, the top end is tired. I am going to pull the vent hoses to the carbs and look through them I have a nice new valve cover - which has the silicone gasket. I might see some evidence in there too.

          more to come - thanks Ken.

          Comment


          • #6
            No, I don't have any swaps or for outright sale at this time, Chris. I'm managing to keep a 10 day or less turnaround on rebuilds, though
            I just can't imagine 'gritty needles'. They are pretty much entirely protected within the jet when the engine isn't running and get washed with fuel when the engine is running.
            I wonder if it's some sort of corrosion caused by the fuel or fuel additive...I just don't know...As many carbs as I've seen, I don't recall 'gritty needles'; "fat needles" yes, but 'gritty' no...however it is YOU..so ???
            Driving a 1973 TR6
            Doing ZS carb repairs
            email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

            Comment


            • #7
              Soft grit or hard grit?

              Ive see mold like soft deposits on metals before which break down to the touch....

              Some type of brass corrosion build up/residue?

              pics?
              '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
              Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
              Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
              Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
              Redlines always.
              My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

              Comment


              • #8
                gm - Ken, I'll give you a call today for a breakdown, but I will admit, I've never had this issue - car not starting. sounds odd, i know, but been turnkey the whole time. pulled fuel line, fuel is being pumped. have spark and ignition. and I have a tear in one of the diaphrams, but a carb will run on a torn diaphram. I pulled one carb, the rear, opened the bowl, and didnt see anything odd. More to come.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Was there gas in the rear carb when you removed it ?
                  Driving a 1973 TR6
                  Doing ZS carb repairs
                  email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    good morning - Ken, I didnt notice any gas in it now that you mention. I bought some new fuel hose, and used that to blow into each carb - front one now allows air in it, but the back one doesn't - which means a stuck float, I assume. I am going to remove that rear carb again and inspect. I assume I can clean and .....lubricate the float axle? it worked well - i did check that with some light pressure while off and the bowl was removed.

                    should also mention that fuel delivery is the problem here- all other systems are good. I also got a new diaphram from a local shop for that rear carb with the tear in it.
                    Last edited by L.O. Guvna; 10-24-2019, 09:58 AM. Reason: adding info

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                    • #11
                      I'd try this on the rear carb and do it before and after storage or periods on BOTH carbs when the car is not being used regularly.
                      The technique was written for flooding carbs, but it's the same procedure I'd at least try for a dry carb.
                      ..............
                      • Disconnect the fuel line from the carbs and plug them or use the cut off valve.
                      • Start the engine and let it run until the carb runs dry.(Tush's idea)
                      • Insert the red extension tube of whatever solvent you have into the carb's fuel inlet nipple. It does not have to be carb cleaner. WD40, PB Blaster, just about any aerosol will do.
                      • Blast away but be aware that most of the solvent will come shooting back at you.
                      • While blasting, tap lightly but rapidly with a metal object such as a box end wrench on the wall of the float chamber in order to set up vibrations.
                      • If you are lucky you will loosen up the needle valve.
                      • If not, you should completely remove the carb and open the float chamber and treat or replace the needle valve and check the buoyancy of the floats. A sinking float exhibits the same symptoms ...
                      • If you do have Grose jets, skip the procedure I first described and just go ahead and replace them with the original plunger type needle valves.
                      • Unless you are a dentist I would not recommend trying to take a shortcut by attempting to remove the float chamber and needle valve with the carb 'in situ'.

                      Last edited by poolboy; 10-24-2019, 10:06 AM.
                      Driving a 1973 TR6
                      Doing ZS carb repairs
                      email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                      Comment


                      • bartman
                        bartman commented
                        Editing a comment
                        This should be engraved and sent to every Triumph owner. I call this "Poolboy's Nuclear Option", and it works.

                    • #12
                      Want to see an extreme example of a 'train wreck' when the suggestion to try that exactly as written is ignored ?
                      https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr6...-carb.1655260/
                      Driving a 1973 TR6
                      Doing ZS carb repairs
                      email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        hello gents

                        PB - all, thanks for the carb wake up. did a few things before reading this - which would have saved time if I had. rather than pull the rear carb, i removed the float bowl, which is challenge with old fingers. and you realize how nice it would be if the bowl bolts were hex or even phillips.

                        i bolted it all back together, and got it running - on one carb - so, i think it was the rear carb. i'll fiddle with it some more this week. updates to come.

                        Comment

                        Dirty carbs. Help. Pool

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