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Front end negative camber

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  • Front end negative camber

    Hello all,
    I just installed stiffer front springs from GP with out any spacers, resulting in the front being lowered by at least an inch, a quick look with out measuring, it appears that I have an negative camber, is the camber adjustment made with front end shims and if so will adding shims correct the negative camber ? Thanks, John Mack

  • #2
    Yeah the shims on the lower A-Arms will pull in the bottom. However if you’ve managed to install the fulcrums at the top backwards you will affect camber. The fulcrums when installed correctly appear to be counter intuitive...like the circular part should face away from the shock tower. Fulcrum is where the Upper A-Arm attaches
    So much rust, so little time

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply, I only replaced the coil spring so the fulcrums should be good, from what you said, removing shims from the lower A arm will pull the bottom in, taking away negative camber from the top ?

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      • #4
        Yes. Unless, all the shims are already removed. I ended with the thick spring pads from Moss to bring the front end up a little. That reduced the negative camber too. Turn in response wasn't as crisp.

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        • #5
          John, you don’t have to completely unbolt the lower arms, just jack up the front, put it on jack stands, loosen the nuts some and pull out a shim at each location. It’s actually pretty simple and painless. You may want a pry bar to lever the lower arm up and down a bit to get the shim free. I don’t recall if I ended up with 1 less or 2 less shims when I went to the GP springs, but I think it was 1.

          Tim

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          • #6
            And just to be certain can you post pics of your fulcrums? Even tho you didn’t touch em. I’ve done a few front ends. Lower springs each time. Didn’t change camber
            So much rust, so little time

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the suggestions, it's always comforting to know great advise is always available. I will see how many shims I have to work with and will get pics of both fulcrums in the next day or so. Thanks again. John

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              • #8
                Follow up to my front end camber question. I was able to take a quick look at the front end today, the camber doesn't seem as bad as it was, could this be to the springs having "settled" a bit and or also not having any human weight in the car ? I have spinners on the wheels so with an adapter tool I made I measured the camber angle ( degrees) I used two different measuring tools one digital one analog and both measured 0 degrees on all four wheels, is this OK ? Thanks, John

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                • #9
                  Front is usually close to zero. Rear kinda depends on your driving style. A little negative camber can be fun
                  So much rust, so little time

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                  • #10
                    I lowered my car an inch also and with all the shims pulled out I ended up with 1 degree of negative camber. Close enough.
                    TRminator 1968 TR250
                    Frame off rotisserie restoration completed by myself and brother in 2014

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                    • #11
                      Follow up #2, I had a few minuets today so went to garage to give the car a suspension adjustment. I adjusted the GP rear sway bar link from all the way forward to all the way rearward. The weather wasn't very pleasant today so I was only able to go for a short ride, I won't know for sure until I can get out for a good spirited ride, but the steering response seems to have settled down and the somewhat scary front bite has settled down. Hoping to get a good ride in before winter and I will post results. John

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                      • #12
                        I run mine with about -1.5 -2 camber in the front and it handles like a beast. Of course tire wear would suffer but the way we used the cars it really isn't that bad. I set it up this way for the dragon last year and just kept it that way.

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                        Front end negative camber

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