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  • Trans out, now what?

    Hey everyone,

    While waiting on my new thrust washers I decided to pull the transmission to confirm my shifter fork bolt was intact. I already had the interior pulled out of the car so I figured I would go for it.

    Bolt is fine.

    So what should I replace while I'm there? New throw out bearing? Current one feels just a bit rough. If I replace it, is there a brand or type I should go with?

    And is there a way to check the clutch plates to see if they need replacement without pulling the pressure plate off and everything apart? How do I determine if the clutch needs to be replaced, and if it does what to do you recommend I get?

    And when I put it back together what type of grease should I use on the fork and bearing?

    Thanks,
    T
    New to the British auto world.
    No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
    1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
    1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
    1952 Ford 8N tractor
    ...they keep me busy!

  • #2
    I had the RHP throwout bearing which failed on a long trip, not fun. The KOYO bearing is the preferred bearing these day,s. I would also put a secondary bolt thru the cross shaft and fork if you hadnt done it already. As for the clutch i would just check how much material is left on the driven plate, material depth above the rivets.

    Comment


    • #3
      It read curved TO bearing with flat fingered clutch and and flat faced TO bearing with crooked fingered clutches.

      Not sure how many actually acknowledge and follow it, if valid.
      '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
      Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
      Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
      Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
      Redlines always.
      My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

      Comment


      • #4
        Check out the tech articles at BuckeyeTriumphs.com for advise on the pin and TOB.
        I72 Pimento w/overdrive

        Comment


        • #5
          Thank you. Reading Buckeye this morning.
          New to the British auto world.
          No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
          1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
          1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
          1952 Ford 8N tractor
          ...they keep me busy!

          Comment


          • #6
            This falls into the category of while I'm in there. Unless the existing clutch is brand new, I would replace all of it and strengthen the clutch fork. Last time I had my tranny out, the bolt in the fork looked fine, was fairly new, but was already starting to crack. So, before I put the tranny back in, we did this:
            CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
            2nd owner, since 1975
            Now in Fair Oaks, CA

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by baws View Post
              This falls into the category of while I'm in there. Unless the existing clutch is brand new, I would replace all of it and strengthen the clutch fork. Last time I had my tranny out, the bolt in the fork looked fine, was fairly new, but was already starting to crack. So, before I put the tranny back in, we did this:
              Actually the EXACT project I'm working on. I'm replacing the clutch/discs/pressure plate, throw out (release) bearing, sleeve, etc. And adding a back-up fork pin as per your pictures.

              Did you drill through the fork shaft as per the instructions on Buckeye, or just tighten the new bolt against the shaft?

              TM
              New to the British auto world.
              No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
              1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
              1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
              1952 Ford 8N tractor
              ...they keep me busy!

              Comment


              • #8
                As I recall, we just put in a new stock style bolt, tightened it against the shaft and safety wired it. Then drilled into the shaft for the additional hex head bolt.
                CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
                2nd owner, since 1975
                Now in Fair Oaks, CA

                Comment


                • #9
                  I used a simple rolled pin on the fork after drilling it out on that flat. It’s held up for twenty years.

                  I also always reface the flywheel by bringing it to the local machine shop. Worth the extra effort to prevent clutch judder IMHO.

                  And make certain you have those trans alignment pins in the proper spot where the enlarged holes are in the bell housing.
                  1974 TR-6 Logic Overdrive

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mike K View Post
                    I used a simple rolled pin on the fork after drilling it out on that flat. It’s held up for twenty years.

                    I also always reface the flywheel by bringing it to the local machine shop. Worth the extra effort to prevent clutch judder IMHO.

                    And make certain you have those trans alignment pins in the proper spot where the enlarged holes are in the bell housing.
                    I discovered that the clutch disc was installed backwards - the side that is marked flywheel side was flipped. Not sure how much that matters. And I discovered that all of the alignment pins we're gone.

                    Considering that the slave cylinder was installed on the wrong side and the previous owner had changed the few other things, nothing is surprising me.

                    I've got a whole new set of alignment pins on order. I hope to reinstall the clutch on Sunday. I'll let you know how it goes.
                    New to the British auto world.
                    No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
                    1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
                    1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
                    1952 Ford 8N tractor
                    ...they keep me busy!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Any leaks at the back of the engine. Since you have the pan off, might be a good time to do the rear main seal. Pop the flywheel & engine plate off and you have easy access.

                      You could also have the flywheel balanced w the clutch. Maybe even lighten it. They’re 28lbs. You can safely shed about 6 pounds off the back side. The engine will spin up faster. You don’t gain HP you just get the available HP quicker.

                      My 2 cents
                      So much rust, so little time

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Shadetree View Post

                        I discovered that the clutch disc was installed backwards - the side that is marked flywheel side was flipped. Not sure how much that matters. And I discovered that all of the alignment pins we're gone.

                        Considering that the slave cylinder was installed on the wrong side and the previous owner had changed the few other things, nothing is surprising me.

                        I've got a whole new set of alignment pins on order. I hope to reinstall the clutch on Sunday. I'll let you know how it goes.
                        Something is/was really out if you found the clutch disk to be installed backwards. The clutch disk bosses won't fit into the opening in the flywheel if backwards. (Unless someone seriously modified the flywheel)

                        Dick

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dicta View Post

                          Something is/was really out if you found the clutch disk to be installed backwards. The clutch disk bosses won't fit into the opening in the flywheel if backwards. (Unless someone seriously modified the flywheel)

                          Dick
                          I'm amazed as well. At this point there's not a lot that will surprise me.

                          And tr250 I luckily don't have any rear seal leakage at this point. I like the idea of resurfacing the flywheel and shaving some weight off of it, but at this point my wallet is completely empty. I'm trying desperately to get this thing back on the road for the last few weeks of driving here in the mountains before we get our first snow and they start salting the roads. Might have to save that part of the project for another time.
                          New to the British auto world.
                          No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
                          1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
                          1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
                          1952 Ford 8N tractor
                          ...they keep me busy!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Can’t blame you there. Get that sucker out & drive it like you stole it! I’m sure our club will be doing a polar bear run. There’s usually a time when the rain washes the salt off.
                            So much rust, so little time

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              one thing to add,when you surface the flywheel have them step the flywheel .008
                              Phil

                              Comment

                              Trans out, now what?

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