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  • #61
    As far as measurements, just do this.
    With theTW's back in place, measure the endfloat.
    Supply that measurement along with the thickness of the current TW's to Scott Helms:
    http://www.customthrustwashers.com/
    Let Scott take it from there.
    Driving a 1973 TR6
    Doing ZS carb repairs
    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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    • #62
      Great idea...I'll get it back together and get confirmed measurements.
      New to the British auto world.
      No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
      1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
      1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
      1952 Ford 8N tractor
      ...they keep me busy!

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      • #63
        It's be nice if you could use feeler gauges to measure that gap in the endfloat
        Driving a 1973 TR6
        Doing ZS carb repairs
        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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        • #64
          Originally posted by poolboy View Post
          It's be nice if you could use feeler gauges to measure that gap in the endfloat
          I was actually trying to do that. Where would you measure it though? Where would you put the gauge?
          New to the British auto world.
          No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
          1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
          1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
          1952 Ford 8N tractor
          ...they keep me busy!

          Comment


          • #65
            Insert the feeler gauges in the gap between the TW and the crankshaft
            Before PhotoBucket got so money hungry these were good clear pictures..but the text is still helpful.
            http://www.6-pack.org/vb5/the-6-pack...387#post201387
            Last edited by poolboy; 09-29-2019, 03:36 PM.
            Driving a 1973 TR6
            Doing ZS carb repairs
            email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

            Comment


            • #66
              I think with the pan dropped, I was able to place the dial gauge against one of the crankshaft lobes for additional measurements....I think.
              '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
              Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
              Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
              Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
              Redlines always.
              My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

              Comment


              • #67
                Originally posted by poolboy View Post
                If the .080 and .088 are correct, the wear in those TW's account for an increase from spec endfloat of .016 "
                Say that the factory initially set the endfloat at .008" using STD TW's and now with the replacement TW's having worn down .016 less than STD, the endfloat should be in the neighborhood of .024" with the current TW's in place... which is considerably less than what you're reporting @ .04 to.06 which was presumably made before the TW's were removed as is standard practice.
                Damn Ken, you are the man!

                I put both TW back in. Used feeler gauge to measure gap between TW and crank surface.

                0.024"

                New to the British auto world.
                No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
                1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
                1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
                1952 Ford 8N tractor
                ...they keep me busy!

                Comment


                • #68
                  Final update on measurements. My dial gauge arrived today and my boy was home, so I could check and double check...and triple check. I tried the dial gauge at multiple locations and rechecked the gap between the TWs and crank with my feeler gauge.

                  Crank end play: 0.025
                  Rear TW: 0.080
                  Front TW: 0.089

                  I've got a message off to Scott Helms with the data and a request for proper replacements.

                  Thanks everyone. I'll let you know how it goes.

                  Tony
                  New to the British auto world.
                  No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
                  1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
                  1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
                  1952 Ford 8N tractor
                  ...they keep me busy!

                  Comment

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