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  • #46
    Photos of what I refered to above....

    Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files
    Tom (aka Hughfree)
    1976 TR-6, BRG, OD, in the midst of a multi-year frame off resto
    1975 TR-6, Carmen red, in storage
    1973 TR-6, White, all original, will be driving soon
    1967 TR-4A, Black, project car
    1974 Spitfire, my Triumph driver until I get a 6 running

    Comment


    • #47
      You can do both with the engine in the car. They are semicircular. Use a small screwdriver on one side to push the TW around the crank and out.

      Before pushing them out you can push the crank all the way back and try to get a more accurate gap reading with a feeler gauge between the face of the TW and crank surface.
      Last edited by lfmTR4; 09-28-2019, 12:40 PM.
      I72 Pimento w/overdrive

      Comment


      • #48
        When you get the TW's out, use your dial calipers to measure each one. Standard would be .092 +/- .0005" and look for the trademark of the original manufacture..that would be a clue as to whether or not they were actually replaced.
        BUT...I'm with 'hughfree'....It's hard to believe there are any TW's in there at all if the crankshaft endfloat were really 10 times more than spec, though.
        AND like Lou....if it were me and if there are still TW's in place, I'd measure the actual endfloat at the gap between the TW and the crankshaft before removing the TW's....in that space 'hughfree' has circled.
        Driving a 1973 TR6
        Doing ZS carb repairs
        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

        Comment


        • #49
          Some points/Tips:
          - Both Thrustwashers are under the #4 bearing cap.
          - Positively note the orientation of the cap, installing it in the same orientation.
          - One TW typically wears more than the other (cant remember which, but I thin the rear TW wears more.
          - Use the edge of a plastic zip tie to push out the TWs. ( to minimize the risk of scratching surfaces)
          - Need some measurements and math to calculate the required replacement size, so keep track of (Total end float measurement (average), Rear TW thickness, Front TW thickness, th e final tolerance result you desire)
          - The grooves in the TWs face AWAY from each other as installed.

          All I can remember off my head....
          Last edited by tr6harris; 09-28-2019, 01:39 PM.
          '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
          Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
          Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
          Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
          Redlines always.
          My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

          Comment


          • #50
            Here’s my TW saga below. Scott Helms was very helpful btw..

            http://www.6-pack.org/vb5/the-6-pack...lacement-notes
            1974 TR-6 Logic Overdrive

            Comment


            • #51
              Thanks everyone. I took the day off from it. Had to walk away. Drove my Ford all day. But I will be back to it tomorrow and let you know what I find. I am absolutely grateful for all of the help and advice.
              New to the British auto world.
              No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
              1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
              1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
              1952 Ford 8N tractor
              ...they keep me busy!

              Comment


              • #52
                Well gentlemen the things I discover. Got to love previous owners and their mechanics.

                There's only half a thrust washer at the #4 location.

                And a pretty significant gap. I'm tracking down my feeler gauge so I can get you an accurate measurement. But regardless it looks like they only put half the thrust washer in. There is absolutely no evidence anywhere of the bottom part of the washer. There is nothing in the pan. No evidence that anything is chewed up anywhere.

                🤨
                New to the British auto world.
                No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
                1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
                1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
                1952 Ford 8N tractor
                ...they keep me busy!

                Comment


                • #53
                  There is no bottom half, Tony.
                  There is a front and a rear, both are half circles (crescent shaped)....no full circles.
                  Driving a 1973 TR6
                  Doing ZS carb repairs
                  email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by poolboy View Post
                    There is no bottom half, Tony.
                    There is a front and a rear, both are half circles (crescent shaped)....no full circles.
                    Well that's good to know. I thought there were full circles. A bottom half and top half.

                    The TW measures 0.080
                    New to the British auto world.
                    No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
                    1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
                    1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
                    1952 Ford 8N tractor
                    ...they keep me busy!

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      The one in your picture is the rear TW.
                      Is that the .080" one ?
                      What about the front one ?
                      Driving a 1973 TR6
                      Doing ZS carb repairs
                      email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        BTW, the front one is also under the # 4 bearing cap...just like the rear one, only in the front of the journal..so don't go looking for the front one under the #1 bearing cap.
                        Driving a 1973 TR6
                        Doing ZS carb repairs
                        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by poolboy View Post
                          BTW, the front one is also under the # 4 bearing cap...just like the rear one, only in the front of the journal..so don't go looking for the front one under the #1 bearing cap.
                          Mind reader! How the hell did you know that I was headed for the number one bearing cap?

                          Rear washer = 0.80.
                          Front washer = 0.88

                          Measured three times. Digital calipers.

                          I'm trying to get a more accurate measure of the actual endplay but every time I've tried I still come up with that 0.04 to 0.06 measurement.

                          I'm including a pic here of the only identifying Mark I can find on the front thrust washer that tells me who produced it.

                          New to the British auto world.
                          No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
                          1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
                          1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
                          1952 Ford 8N tractor
                          ...they keep me busy!

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            That's an aftermarket standard size "STD" which started out .092" thick
                            I believe you left off a "0".
                            Isn't it Rear .080" Front .088 ?
                            Driving a 1973 TR6
                            Doing ZS carb repairs
                            email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Originally posted by poolboy View Post
                              That's an aftermarket standard size "STD" which started out .092" thick
                              I believe you left off a "0".
                              Isn't it Rear .080" Front .088 ?
                              Yes I forgot the zeros.

                              Rear is 0.080
                              Front is 0.088 +/- 0.002 (my average is 0.087)

                              Presuming my end play measures are correct at 0.04 to 0.06...(I'll confirm asap)...

                              Please help me with the math. What should I order? And from whom?

                              Tony
                              New to the British auto world.
                              No qualifications - old school shadetree mechanic...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
                              1973 TR6, ZS carbs, Pertronix ignition (for now)
                              1973 Ford Bronco, 302 V8
                              1952 Ford 8N tractor
                              ...they keep me busy!

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                If the .080 and .088 are correct, the wear in those TW's account for an increase from spec endfloat of .016 "
                                Say that the factory initially set the endfloat at .008" using STD TW's and now with the replacement TW's having worn down .016 less than STD, the endfloat should be in the neighborhood of .024" with the current TW's in place... which is considerably less than what you're reporting @ .04 to.06 which was presumably made before the TW's were removed as is standard practice.
                                Driving a 1973 TR6
                                Doing ZS carb repairs
                                email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                                Comment

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