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All Kinds of Noises from Brakes - Brake Squeals, Squeaks, Pads Rubbing

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  • All Kinds of Noises from Brakes - Brake Squeals, Squeaks, Pads Rubbing

    Caveat before starting -- I am a rookie to the TR6, so any stupidity exhibited here is likely just that. Anyway, here goes:

    I've been experiencing some noisy brakes on my new-to-me TR6. The previous owner/mechanic installed new pads on it before delivering to me, and now I'm afraid I either screwed up the bedding in (not as deliberate with the process as I should have been -- lesson learned) or there's something wrong with the install.

    Symptoms initially:
    - Brakes squeal under light braking and slow speed (such as after slowing down at a light and creeping that last few feet up to the car ahead)
    - Once in a while I'd hear light metal rubbing noise, matched to wheel speed, which goes away when brakes are applied at all
    - Even more rarely, I'd hear a metallic rattle while idling or at slow speeds, also went away when brakes are applied at all

    These were happening less and less as I took the car out for more trips, supporting my theory that it was just the new pads needing to wear in. For a bit there I'd really have to lightly brake to get them to squeal.

    Then, I took the car on a long trip up to the Grand Prix Festival at Watkins Glen (great time, highly recommend), and throughout the weekend, the squeal got worse and worse, and around a bunch of TR owners no less, who care about this kind of thing and could probably fix it in 10 minutes if given the chance (again, rookie over here).

    Now, the symptoms are:
    - Brakes squeal loudly at basically every stop, and even during some non-stopping braking (i.e. slowing from 50 to 30 mph)
    - Rubbing noise happening more often, goes away when brakes are applied at all, changes side to side when wheels are turned left or right
    - Rattle happening more often
    - I'm fairly certain the noise is coming from the front brakes (seems to be coming from that way when I crane my head over the door, rubbing noise changes when wheels turn, rattle continues even when handbrake applied, no squeal when using handbrake to go from a very slow coast to 0 mph)

    So, I'm thinking that I have calipers that are sticking (the rubbing), and in the, ahem, spirited driving over the weekend, I overheated and glazed the brakes, making the squeal much worse.

    What do you all think is happening here, and what can I do to investigate and fix it? And are these things something that a handy-ish rookie can tackle, or should I take it to an expert? Any advice, help and guidance would be much appreciated.

  • #2
    Yeah, brake squeal is kind of frustrating. I would pull out the pads and lightly scuff the rotors with a scotch pad pad to remove the glaze. Triumph originally fitted metal anti-squeal shims on the back of the pads, check to see if they are there. You could also try spraying some CRC disc brake quiet on the back of the pads. Many TR6 owners have installed Centric Posi Quiet Ceramic pads p/n 105.03300 which come shimmed for noise cancel and they are almost dust free. Sometimes the rattling noise you are hearing are the pads rattling around on the pad pins being caused by the rotor being warped. Check the runout on the rotors. If it excessive you might feel a pulsing sensation thru the pedal. Hope this helps. I agree, the Watkins Glen Festival was a blast. I had the french blue with the hardtop in the tour de marque group.

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    • #3
      Investing in a brake kit that includes new retaining pins, cotter pins, pad backing shims, pad anti clatter clips, and anti squeal goo will help too in my opinion.
      1974 TR-6 Logic Overdrive

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      • #4
        ...and check that your hub-rotor nuts are adjusted properly....
        '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
        Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
        Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
        Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
        Redlines always.
        My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

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        • #5
          And very cool car...Java!!
          So much rust, so little time

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          • #6
            Check front wheel bearings. I can’t tell you what the spec is but if they are on the loose side, there’s you squeal.

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            • #7
              Thank you. I've seen a lot about scuffing, but no agreement on the grit or level of scuff. Some say super fine sandpaper, some say low grit rough sandpaper, you recommended a Scotch pad. Scotch pad seems the safest/least abrasive, but do you feel that's enough to do the trick? Also, how hard is it to get to the inside side of the rotors?

              I'd like to try some steps before I start replacing things, so I think my first attempt is going to be some rotor scuffing and a hit with Brakleen.

              I don't feel anything suggesting the rotors are warped (pulsing, etc.). But the pads rattling on the pins would make sense for what I'm hearing and what stops it. Anything I can do about that short of replacement?

              I didn't see your French blue one - I did the Sporting Roadster Tour so my dad and I could do it together, he's uncivilized and doesn't have a Triumph .

              Originally posted by tr6ed View Post
              Yeah, brake squeal is kind of frustrating. I would pull out the pads and lightly scuff the rotors with a scotch pad pad to remove the glaze. Triumph originally fitted metal anti-squeal shims on the back of the pads, check to see if they are there. You could also try spraying some CRC disc brake quiet on the back of the pads. Many TR6 owners have installed Centric Posi Quiet Ceramic pads p/n 105.03300 which come shimmed for noise cancel and they are almost dust free. Sometimes the rattling noise you are hearing are the pads rattling around on the pad pins being caused by the rotor being warped. Check the runout on the rotors. If it excessive you might feel a pulsing sensation thru the pedal. Hope this helps. I agree, the Watkins Glen Festival was a blast. I had the french blue with the hardtop in the tour de marque group.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Mike K View Post
                Investing in a brake kit that includes new retaining pins, cotter pins, pad backing shims, pad anti clatter clips, and anti squeal goo will help too in my opinion.
                Thank you. Any specific kits you'd recommend?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by tr6harris View Post
                  ...and check that your hub-rotor nuts are adjusted properly....
                  Can you advise on the best way to check that?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by tr250 View Post
                    And very cool car...Java!!
                    Thanks! It was great being up around other Triumph owners with it over the weekend. Had a few call out the paint by name as I drove by!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Bob Giles View Post
                      Check front wheel bearings. I can’t tell you what the spec is but if they are on the loose side, there’s you squeal.
                      What's the best way to check that? Is it the play from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock and from 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock method?

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                      • #12
                        Yeah, that'll work..the wheel will feel loose.
                        There'll be instructions in the manual as how to adjust the wheel bearings...the TR6 isn't different from other rear wheel drive cars in that respect. If you can check and adjust other cars front wheel bearings, you can do a TR6.
                        Last edited by poolboy; 09-12-2019, 04:57 PM.
                        Driving a 1973 TR6
                        Doing ZS carb repairs
                        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jeremygarofalo View Post

                          What's the best way to check that? Is it the play from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock and from 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock method?
                          Twelve and six o'clock. No play should be evident. (Three and nine could allow the wheels to move)

                          Dick

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                          All Kinds of Noises from Brakes - Brake Squeals, Squeaks, Pads Rubbing

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