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  • Trailing Arm Removal Issue

    I’m well into removing my trailing arms in preparation for installing the RG adjustable brackets. Not one of my favourite jobs so far, almost makes me want to buy a hoist!




    Anyhow, I finally got the 4 nuts of holding the TA onto the frame, but when I try to remove it the bolt through the outer bushing comes into contact with the inner sill and will not budge beyond that. As I see it my options are to a) try to remove the frozen nut and extract the bolt from the inside (poly bushings so it SHOULD move easily) or b) do a bit of minor bodywork on the inside of the rocker to provide clearance. I believe this is not the factory setup as the bushings had been Replaced prior to me having the car, i.e with this setup the bolt could “fall out”. So far I’ve only done one side so I’m not sure if the other is binding or not due to the body placement on the frame.

    Click image for larger version

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    Any other suggestions to get through this?

  • #2
    Seeing how you'll be replacing the "thru bolt" with the new adjustable bracket, can you tighten the nut/bolt til it breaks or get on the head or nut end with a cutting tool ? ie saws all, cut off wheel of sorts ?

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    • #3
      What if you pull the TA away from the frame as far as it will go and then get a cutting tool of some sort between the frame and the TA bracket to cut the bolts that pass through the frame.

      You'd then have to replace the bolts but I don't think there's anything special about them.
      73 TR6
      Libertyville, IL
      My TR6

      Comment


      • yycdave
        yycdave commented
        Editing a comment
        I like that, Phil. It's a Grade 8 bolt but its worth a try.

    • #4
      Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCF1157 (6).JPG Views:	1 Size:	297.8 KB ID:	524335
      Well, it's been awhile since I re-bushed the TA & mounted the adjustable camber brackets.

      I remember that when replacing the trailing arms, one of the brackets had to be mounted to the TA before it was installed.
      The other bracket had to be mounted to the frame first.

      So, the reverse of that would be that one bracket comes off with the TA, one comes off after TA removed.
      In fact, if you study the instructions that come with the RG brackets, you will read the install sequence- just reverse it for removal.

      A propane torch & penetrating fluid should loosen up any stuck bolt/nut combo.

      I remember using open-end, box-end, sockets with cheater bar on a ratchet. It is not an easy job when everything is partially corroded, & you are working with jack-stand clearance.

      Yes, that's right, the RG adjustable brackets come with new bolts, nuts & washers.
      ………………………………………………………………………...
      Okay, found a pic. It is the outer bracket that gets mounted to the frame before the TA is installed.
      So, the TA would have to come out first, then remove that outer bracket, last.

      Remember the orientation of all the shims, & keep the shims in the same position & quantity matched to the new brackets. It is logical because the shims need to be able to slip in & out from the inside/center of the TA.
      Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 07-09-2019, 08:45 PM.
      Walt
      CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
      poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

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      • #5
        That is the factory setup. Tighten the outer bracket back to the frame and that should give you more leverage to work on the bushing bolt.

        Comment


        • #6
          Cut the nut end off with a sawzall, seems to be plenty of room to get a blade in.
          1976 TR6 originally white now Porsche Voodoo Blue
          Frame off resto started May 2015
          Tshirts and TA boxes replaced
          Diff braced and reinforced
          Engine and head rebuilt
          Header and Intake ported
          SS exhaust
          Floors repaired, new metal at rear bumper mounting points
          New Rockers
          AAW wiring - GM alternator
          Complete suspension and brake rebuild, poly bushings

          Comment


          • #7
            Mea Culpa. So after I RTFD (Richards) installation instructions it turns out the outer bushing is installed correctly and the correct process is to remove the bushing bolt on the outer, remove the inner bracket from the chassis rail, pull the arm away, and then remove the outer bracket. The angle of the chassis arm makes it impossible to pull the outer straight off.




            Thanks for all the suggestions.

            Comment


            • #8
              Let us know the condition of the existing poly bushes.
              i have just gone through the same exercise, I had intended to use split “graphite impregnated” poly bushes bur they were a sloppy fit in the trailing arm bores. Would not want to risk rotation of the swinging arm on the OD of the bush, so as I have an event this weekend I installed some rubber bushes that I had.
              Doing this next time I would use Superflex one piece bushes which have to be pressed in like rubber, or talk with RG about his Nylatron bushes.
              Eric.

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              Trailing Arm Removal Issue

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