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  • Chassis integrity

    I know this is a hard one to answer without a thorough visual inspection, but after getting a chassis back from the blaster, there are some sections on the bottom flats that are rougher-not pocked, per se, but rough.. what’s your comfort level with how rough a section has to get before you cut it out and replace it? Or, is there any sense in brazing some material there? The attached pic isn’t the worst of it, but just an idea of the roughness of the steel. It was a chassis that was “stored” outside, in a generous sense...

    Vince
    Last edited by VJC; 06-11-2019, 10:33 AM.

  • #2
    Hit it firmly w a hammer. If it remains undistorted, it should be ok.
    So much rust, so little time

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    • #3
      Yes. But it does remind me of the way my wife's siblings tested the first real ice of the season on the nearby river in Maine to determine if it was safe for skating."We through a big rock up in the air, and if it went through, we waited until the river froze more".

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      • #4
        What happens is that the steel absorbs moisture, it swells up throughout, looks bloated, weakens, starts to crumble and then it is susceptible to snapping apart. You know...going down the road with people onboard.

        The frame/chassis can be much worse internally (inside the box sections)- where you can't see- then the corrosion grows outward.

        But when is the point at which it is TOO dangerous?
        That's the question.
        Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 06-11-2019, 03:37 PM.
        Walt
        CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
        poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

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        • #5
          If the door gap on the rear of the doors is wider at the top than it is at the bottom then you most likely have rust issues under the tee-shirt at the back.
          When this area rusts the metal becomes weak.
          When the car is jacked up with the jack in front of the rear wheels the weight of the whole back end of the car causes the back of the frame to slump.
          This slumping is an incremental thing that progresses over time as the frame gets weaker and the car is jacked up numerous times.
          I talked to Tony at Ratco and he agrees with me on this.
          Not an easy thing to fix.
          You can remove the tee-shirt and patch the metal but the frame is still slumped.
          If you go into Ed_h's blog site you will see he actually had to cut the frame behind the diff mounts and bend the frame back up and weld it.
          I think the proper way to fix it is to take the car to a frame shop and have them straighten the frame.
          Then remove the t-shirt and patch the frame.
          I know all about this as I found out about it the hard way....

          Cheers
          Byron

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          • #6
            Well, I am on Tony’s list. The good one, that is. At this point in my life, I’m more interested in cornering and shifting without things ripping- either inside me or from the car.

            Thanks for your replies. The chassis isn’t too bad, but as
            Byron points out, there’s structural integrity, and then there’s getting the thing aligned properly. It would be SO much easier fitting the body and doors knowing the chassis measures up the way it’s supposed to.

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            • #7
              FWIW, my personal criteria is this: if you think 25% or more of the thickness of the steel has been compromised in a 1 inch square area, it needs reinforcement/repair.

              As you were,

              Cheers,

              Wolf
              76 TR6 CF58170UO (The Lady)
              72 TR6 CC80068UO (The Slut)
              68 TR250 CD4893L (retirement project)

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