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Relocating ignition switch to center plinth

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  • robertsdw6501
    started a topic Relocating ignition switch to center plinth

    Relocating ignition switch to center plinth

    As part of the wiring install in my '74, I am relocating the ignition switch to the center plinth to get rid of the steering lock and also because I like the look of the early cars' ('69-'72) dash.
    Has any one done this and what would be your advice ? I have already physically prepared the new plinth and purchased an ignition switch that matches the early cars. The wiring is going to be slightly different and that is my main question for those who have been down this road before. Since I am installing a new, standard configuration wiring harness, I was thinking of starting by making a longer pigtail utilizing the connector from the old under column mounted switch assembly. I assume at the other end near the new switch I will have to eliminate or combine some leads.

    Thanks!

    '74 TR6
    A-type OD

  • Roverguy
    replied
    I also relocated a 250 switch in the 5 hole plinth I bought since I was replacing all the soft panels on my 70's dash anyway.

    i just made some male/female pigtails and tapped into the orig wiring. This way if someone decides to go back to stock it'll be an easy job.

    i always hated reaching down under the dash to start the car.

    Now its just like my 250s were!

    BTW, i have the entire orig switch and lock in a bag if anyone needs one at a reasonable price.

    Leave a comment:


  • Soup
    replied
    Pretty confident on the wiring to the switch. Every time it happens, as soon as I grab the wiring plinth behind the switch she fires instantly back up.

    Thanks for the thought though in case I’m wrong.

    Leave a comment:


  • RatRidgeRoadster
    replied
    Originally posted by Soup View Post
    Ironically, today my switch cut out on me about three times, one time with a nice big backfire.
    It could also be your coil cutting out. That's what happened to me when the third backfire blew a hole in my #6 piston.

    Leave a comment:


  • Soup
    replied
    Trying to get the knob off turned into a bit of a project. The knob didn’t want to come off. I ended up partially disassembling the dash to get at the nut that secures the rheostat to the back of the dash. After I was able to loosen the rheostat, I could get a good grip on the knob to pull it off and then remove the rheostat. So now I have a hole in the dash and found out the hole is actually pretty large at one inch. Time to look for an ignition switch.

    Leave a comment:


  • Soup
    replied
    I’m thinking I would put the switch where the rheostat is like Dave did. This spot will/should be easier and reversible, not that I think I would reverse it. Does anyone know what size hole the rheostat uses? Although I should just be able to pull the knob to see ...I’ll go try...

    Leave a comment:


  • Soup
    replied
    Ironically, today my switch cut out on me about three times, one time with a nice big backfire. I will play around with it later to make sure everything is tight but I may be moving this up on my list. Curious where you sourced your new ignition switch from?

    Leave a comment:


  • Soup
    replied
    Looks great! This is on my To Do list as well...just kinda far down

    Leave a comment:


  • robertsdw6501
    replied
    Task completed, works and looks great - thanks everyone!

    Leave a comment:


  • robertsdw6501
    replied
    Thanks Anthony, and thank you to everyone else - i will be doing this mod shortly.

    I am spending a lot of time upside under the dash lately...

    Leave a comment:


  • Anthony
    replied
    I found both on the internet. I believe they are both the same but from different sources. It works fine. The switch from Moss is not labeled.

    Leave a comment:


  • robertsdw6501
    replied
    Anthony - what is the second diagram? The first is labeled TR250. Your installation looks good!

    Leave a comment:


  • Anthony
    replied
    I bought a switch for a TR250 from Moss and drilled out the center hole in the plinth. I should have just bought the 5 hole plinth while I had everything apart but got lost in the details. These are pics of the wire locations on the switch, the colors reference an original harness. I was installing an AAW harness and had no trouble with it. Hope this helps. The only thing I don't like about it is that the keys are small, unlike the original.

    Leave a comment:


  • Litespud
    replied
    I never liked the awkward location of the ignition switch, nor ever used the steering lock. After my ignition switch failed, leaving me stranded at the roadside, I opted for a modern switch (Ron Francis Wiring) rather than a repro of unknown quality, and relocated it to the dash center. I removed the original switch, bypassed the all-but-useless rheostat, installed dash LEDs and installed the new ignition switch into the rheostat hole. Once I figured out the various ignition switch connections (POWER, ACC, IGN and START, IIRC), I extended the respective wires and wired in the new switch. Also finally figured out how to hotwire a car 👍

    Leave a comment:


  • robertsdw6501
    replied
    That sounds good. Thank you Ed.

    Leave a comment:

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