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Relocating ignition switch to center plinth

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  • Relocating ignition switch to center plinth

    As part of the wiring install in my '74, I am relocating the ignition switch to the center plinth to get rid of the steering lock and also because I like the look of the early cars' ('69-'72) dash.
    Has any one done this and what would be your advice ? I have already physically prepared the new plinth and purchased an ignition switch that matches the early cars. The wiring is going to be slightly different and that is my main question for those who have been down this road before. Since I am installing a new, standard configuration wiring harness, I was thinking of starting by making a longer pigtail utilizing the connector from the old under column mounted switch assembly. I assume at the other end near the new switch I will have to eliminate or combine some leads.

    Thanks!

    '74 TR6
    A-type OD

  • #2
    It's a pretty straight forward mod. There is a switch on the original lock that is closed when the key is inserted. Wires for that circuit won't be used with the relocated switch. Otherwise, it is just rerouting or extending original wires to the new switch.

    Most ignition switches come with terminals labeled BAT, IGN, ACC, and START, or similar.

    Ed
    For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

    Comment


    • #3
      That sounds good. Thank you Ed.

      Comment


      • #4
        I never liked the awkward location of the ignition switch, nor ever used the steering lock. After my ignition switch failed, leaving me stranded at the roadside, I opted for a modern switch (Ron Francis Wiring) rather than a repro of unknown quality, and relocated it to the dash center. I removed the original switch, bypassed the all-but-useless rheostat, installed dash LEDs and installed the new ignition switch into the rheostat hole. Once I figured out the various ignition switch connections (POWER, ACC, IGN and START, IIRC), I extended the respective wires and wired in the new switch. Also finally figured out how to hotwire a car 👍
        Dave C
        '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
        Chapel Hill NC

        Comment


        • #5
          I bought a switch for a TR250 from Moss and drilled out the center hole in the plinth. I should have just bought the 5 hole plinth while I had everything apart but got lost in the details. These are pics of the wire locations on the switch, the colors reference an original harness. I was installing an AAW harness and had no trouble with it. Hope this helps. The only thing I don't like about it is that the keys are small, unlike the original.
          1976 TR6 originally white now Porsche Voodoo Blue
          Frame off resto started May 2015
          Tshirts and TA boxes replaced
          Diff braced and reinforced
          Engine and head rebuilt
          Header and Intake ported
          SS exhaust
          Floors repaired, new metal at rear bumper mounting points
          New Rockers
          AAW wiring - GM alternator
          Complete suspension and brake rebuild, poly bushings

          Comment


          • #6
            Anthony - what is the second diagram? The first is labeled TR250. Your installation looks good!

            Comment


            • #7
              I found both on the internet. I believe they are both the same but from different sources. It works fine. The switch from Moss is not labeled.
              1976 TR6 originally white now Porsche Voodoo Blue
              Frame off resto started May 2015
              Tshirts and TA boxes replaced
              Diff braced and reinforced
              Engine and head rebuilt
              Header and Intake ported
              SS exhaust
              Floors repaired, new metal at rear bumper mounting points
              New Rockers
              AAW wiring - GM alternator
              Complete suspension and brake rebuild, poly bushings

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks Anthony, and thank you to everyone else - i will be doing this mod shortly.

                I am spending a lot of time upside under the dash lately...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Task completed, works and looks great - thanks everyone!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Looks great! This is on my To Do list as well...just kinda far down
                    1972. J Type Overdrive
                    Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
                    RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
                    RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
                    Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Ironically, today my switch cut out on me about three times, one time with a nice big backfire. I will play around with it later to make sure everything is tight but I may be moving this up on my list. Curious where you sourced your new ignition switch from?
                      1972. J Type Overdrive
                      Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
                      RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
                      RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
                      Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I’m thinking I would put the switch where the rheostat is like Dave did. This spot will/should be easier and reversible, not that I think I would reverse it. Does anyone know what size hole the rheostat uses? Although I should just be able to pull the knob to see ...I’ll go try...
                        1972. J Type Overdrive
                        Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
                        RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
                        RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
                        Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Trying to get the knob off turned into a bit of a project. The knob didn’t want to come off. I ended up partially disassembling the dash to get at the nut that secures the rheostat to the back of the dash. After I was able to loosen the rheostat, I could get a good grip on the knob to pull it off and then remove the rheostat. So now I have a hole in the dash and found out the hole is actually pretty large at one inch. Time to look for an ignition switch.
                          1972. J Type Overdrive
                          Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
                          RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
                          RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
                          Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Soup View Post
                            Ironically, today my switch cut out on me about three times, one time with a nice big backfire.
                            It could also be your coil cutting out. That's what happened to me when the third backfire blew a hole in my #6 piston.

                            R3
                            Jim Herter Copperas Cove, TX
                            Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 ֎ CC 50990 LO
                            VDU 506H

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Pretty confident on the wiring to the switch. Every time it happens, as soon as I grab the wiring plinth behind the switch she fires instantly back up.

                              Thanks for the thought though in case I’m wrong.
                              1972. J Type Overdrive
                              Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
                              RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
                              RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
                              Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

                              Comment

                              Relocating ignition switch to center plinth

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