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  • Pulling the engine

    OK, now that I've potentially decided to take leave of my senses and pull the engine as part of this engine bay repaint I just dove right in. Most of this is stuff I've done many times before.

    - Interior is out
    - Dash support is out
    - Trans tunnel is out
    - Shift lever is out
    - Driveshaft disconnected
    - Trans mount bolts are loosened

    Pretty much just need to disconnect the motor mounts, hook up a crane and out she comes

    However, looking at the engine I'm worried about the steering rack. There's only about a half inch between the crankshaft pulley and the steering rack and very little clearance for the bell-housing to move up so I could tilt the motor to clear the rack..

    Is all this stuff going to clear when I start lifting the engine with the crane or do I need to pull the steering rack as well?

    I REALLY hope the answer is that it will clear. I have to think it will given that I don't think the guy who rebuilt the engine years ago had to yank the steering rack but...better to know now than when I'm trying to lift the engine out.
    73 TR6
    Libertyville, IL
    My TR6

  • #2
    I have never done it so caveat emptor... but i have read the elevating the rear of the car helps with reducing the amount of tilt that is required to get the engine/trans out as a unit over the front grill. Might help with your concern as well. Good luck...
    c74

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    • #3
      Phil, FWIW, I've never had to pull the steering rack while pulling the engine. Just go slow coming out and even slower going back in.

      Cheers,

      Kevin
      76 TR6 CF58170UO (The Lady)
      72 TR6 CC80068UO (The Slut)
      68 TR250 CD4893L (retirement project)

      Comment


      • #4
        it really helps to have an angle adjustment device attached to the lift to have the transmission pointing down. If its a straight lift, if might be easier to take off the tranny first.. The steering rack isn't a problem.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yeah, I have one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...ler-67441.html so that should help.
          73 TR6
          Libertyville, IL
          My TR6

          Comment


          • #6
            I think I had to unbolt the the steering rack and move it forward, but it doesn't have to be removed. Not a big job, the rack mounts have to be compressed when re-installing or there will be slop in the steering.
            Berry

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Wolf76STL View Post
              Phil, FWIW, I've never had to pull the steering rack while pulling the engine. Just go slow coming out and even slower going back in.

              Cheers,

              Kevin
              What Kevin said. You also need to take out the chassis cross brace. I didn't see that in your list above.

              Comment


              • #8
                And to get that out after you've removed the 3 bolts on each end you'll probably have to jack up the front of the car just enough to get the most of the weight off the 2 front wheels...It's pinched in place pretty tight otherwise.
                Driving a 1973 TR6
                Doing ZS carb repairs
                email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  Or use a BFH....with rubber padding of course.
                  I've always been able to pull the engine without messing with the steering rack/column, but I also pull the radiator and take off the fan. With the tilt a lift or load leveler once the engine is off its mounts and free hanging its pretty easy to move around. I have the harbor freight one linked by Phil73....its invaluable for pulling and re--installing the engine - definitely worth the cost of admission.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Phil....just had a great idea. Since you'll have the engine out anyway, and while the paint is drying....you could put in a hot street cam!
                    buah ha ha ha

                    Cheers,
                    Kevin
                    (sorry, that was the "evil" Kevin that said that)
                    76 TR6 CF58170UO (The Lady)
                    72 TR6 CC80068UO (The Slut)
                    68 TR250 CD4893L (retirement project)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I’m sure we could think up lots of things for Phil to do....

                      Cheers
                      Tush
                      81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8
                      73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
                      62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
                      60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The cross brace actually came out pretty easy once I (gently( levered the right inner fender well out of the way by a 1/16"

                        I've got everything lined up but am waiting on a second set of hands before I actually start lifting the engine.

                        Things look like this right now
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                        Click image for larger version

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                        Couple questions:
                        - I worry that the load leveler is already tilted. I feel like I want a shorter chain to the front hook and a longer chain to the rear hook.
                        - Once I put tension on this won't the front lift hook just bend like crazy?

                        Thoughts?
                        Attached Files
                        73 TR6
                        Libertyville, IL
                        My TR6

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I agree. I think you want to start out with the load leveler a little more parallel to the rocker cover. Then once you reach the end of the threads on the load leveler, your second set of hands will be able to tilt the engine a little more vertical by pulling down on the tranny tail as you're raising the assembly. Your front lift hook may bend a little, but probably not that much.

                          Cheers,

                          Kevin
                          76 TR6 CF58170UO (The Lady)
                          72 TR6 CC80068UO (The Slut)
                          68 TR250 CD4893L (retirement project)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Problem is that the chain can't really be shortened. You can't just move the threaded link (attaches to the load leveler) down a link in the chain. It won't fit through a link in the chain that has 2 pieces of chain in it.
                            73 TR6
                            Libertyville, IL
                            My TR6

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Your fine. TIghten the lift as much as possible then undo the motor mounts. and it will float.
                              This is not a fine nor delicate operation. If one of the lifting eyes bends a bit when you take the engine off then tap it back in place with a hammer once you get the engine out and off. It will not bend to meet the angle, so to speak as the lifting eyes are pretty strong metal. I can attest to this as I've lifted an engine out of the sons TR6 last week (and to Wolf's point, installed a BP270 cam, new rings and a PI head (not off my TR5 for those who have messaged me about potential sacriledge)).
                              The best advice I can give is to say "go for it".

                              Comment

                              Pulling the engine

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