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  • Gearbox removal

    Hello everyone. Can anyone direct me to a step by step guide to removing the gearbox? I want to remove it in order for it to be rebuilt. Thanks for your help!
    JHowe

  • #2
    The Bentley Manual will guide with this and lots more.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/TR6-SHOP-MA...%7CModel%3ATR6
    1972. J Type Overdrive
    Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
    RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
    RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
    Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

    Comment


    • 70Damson
      70Damson commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you!

  • #3
    OMG, where to start.....
    Car on stands
    Remove at least the passenger-side seat - I pull both seats, as it's a little extra work, but the extra access is priceless
    Remove kidney pads
    Remove dash support - 4 bolts on the floor, two on the dash, one each side below the heater control plinth.
    Remove transmission tunnel (in my experience, removing the tranny tunnel required removing the handbrake, so disconnect the handbrake cables at the rear wheels, then remove the handbrake pivot bolt and pull the lever up and out. YMMV). Removing the tunnel itself requires undoing a string of screws along both sides holding the tunnel to the floor, then a set of screws at the front of the tunnel, holding the tunnel to a flange on the firewall
    There may be wires coming out through an a hole in the tunnel - neutral indicators, reverse light, overdrive, YMMV
    Now with the gearbox exposed, start by undoing the 4 screws attaching the output flange to the front end of the prop shaft. You should be able to push the prop shaft in a bit - it telescopes
    Go under the car and put some supports under the engine. I use an adjustable trailer stand, good for 500 lb, and a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan toward the rear of the pan - the adjustability is useful going forward. Or you could use a bottle jack or even a trolley jack if there's room
    There is an array of fasteners all the way around the bell housing, holding the gearbox to the engine. Some are screws and nuts through the rear engine plate, some screw directly into the block, some also hold on the clutch slave cylinder on the drivers side, or the starter motor on the passenger side. In my experience, all are accessible (some barely) from under the car or through the engine compartment. Take notes and label the fasteners as they come out, so you can replace them.
    At ~10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the bell housing, there should be two 3/8" metal dowels, rather than threaded fasteners. Don't lose these, and take note of their position - they're necessary to align the engine/tranny for reinstallation.
    With all the fasteners out, and the prop shaft disconnected, there's nothing left but to muscle the tranny off the engine. You might jack up the engine slightly, so that the output flange on the tranny clears the prop shaft flange, allowing the tranny to move rearwards, but don't jack up the engine so much that the bell housing catches on the firewall. you need to play that one by ear
    An assistant is very useful here
    Wiggling, sweating, cursing ensue, and eventually the tranny will pop off, then you lift it out. I estimate the tranny with overdrive weighs ~70 lb, so watch your back.
    Last edited by Litespud; 03-18-2019, 09:30 PM.
    Dave C
    '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
    Chapel Hill NC

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    • 70Damson
      70Damson commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you!

  • #4
    Originally posted by 70Damson View Post
    Hello everyone. Can anyone direct me to a step by step guide to removing the gearbox? I want to remove it in order for it to be rebuilt. Thanks for your help!
    I can only add that having a "skid" plate of some sort of semi hard material will aid in dragging it across the floor out thru the passenger door. I use a piece of1/4 inch plywood notched out to fit over the seat hold down plates.

    Dick

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    • 70Damson
      70Damson commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you!

  • #5
    Does the gearbox come out from the cockpit or underneath the car? I have heard conflicting information.
    JHowe

    Comment


    • MARKRL
      MARKRL commented
      Editing a comment
      Did mine last August. I pulled it out from the interior.

    • Cygan
      Cygan commented
      Editing a comment
      Has to come out from above usually out through the passenger side door.

  • #6
    Are we talking overdrive box or 4-speed? If overdrive, consider removing the transmission cross member from the frame. It may give you that extra wiggle room you’ll need. 4-speeds tend to be much easier. Not to mention they’re considerably lighter.

    So much rust, so little time

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    • #7
      Removes up through the cockpit, passenger side.

      Important points:
      Support/slightly raise thr rear of the engine.
      Note the bellhousing bolt size placement. There are a couple larger than the others, but I cant remember which positions.
      Think clean and jerk to remove the tranny.
      building a support slide under it, is a good idea.

      All I can remember from my one/only removal years ago with tips from my FIL (RIP), an original owner.
      '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
      Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
      Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
      Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
      Redlines always.
      My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

      Comment


      • 70Damson
        70Damson commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you!

    • #8
      In my description above I forgot to mention unfastning the tranny from the rear tranny mount - two large bolts/nuts. Do this immediately before/after disconnecting the output flange from the prop shaft. I also have a ~2ft piece of 2x4 handy to slide under the front of the tranny once it’s off the motor - supports it while I catch my breath prior to hauling it out of the passenger compartment. Stepping out of a raised car holding a 50-70 lb awkwardly-shaped piece of metal, while trying to avoid marring the interior is a good recipe for injury or damage - worth taking your time about. I suppose it might be possible to take out the tranny through the bottom, but there’s a fair chance that the exhaust will get in the way, and depending how high you have the car elevated, the tranny itself might get stuck under there. And you’re likely going to have to remove the rear tranny mount (actually, looking at tr250s comment above, removing the rear mount anyway might be a good idea if you’re dealing with an O/D tranny. I didn’t both times, but looking back, I can see how that would’ve made things easier) Since at least one seat is going to have to come out anyway, I really don’t see an upside to attempting to take the tranny out from underneath
      Last edited by Litespud; 03-19-2019, 08:32 AM.
      Dave C
      '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
      Chapel Hill NC

      Comment


      • #9
        Done this 4 times to my car over the years. Dave's description is spot on. Its a labor intensive piece of work but not really that technically challenging.

        Having a second set of hands helps tremendously. I've found that having one person under the car and one person in the cockpit for bell housing bolt and eventually tranny removal is very helpful. A second set of hands when you put it back together is also a huge help.
        73 TR6
        Libertyville, IL
        My TR6

        Comment


        • #10
          I really don’t see an upside to attempting to take the tranny out from underneath
          Believe it or not, this is possible. No need to take out seats, console, tunnel...
          TR Friend performed this act against all odds and proved hardcore TR Drivers wrong.

          Jochem
          Flying Dutchman drives: TR6 - 1973 - 56/11 - CF1xxxxUO - J-OD - Kent 280° - EMU Black - Phoenix - 205/70 on 7x15

          Comment


          • SapphireBlue72
            SapphireBlue72 commented
            Editing a comment
            But, but...the top bolts of the bell housing?

          • JochemsTR
            JochemsTR commented
            Editing a comment
            SapphireBlue72....unbolt the engine and shift engine with tranny little forward. Small wrists and extension for socket are required. It was a clear trade-off between taking out seats, carpet, console etc. Installing it again was actually the easier part.

        • #11
          I think this what "Litespud" DaveC wrote is worth repeating:
          "At ~10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the bell housing, there should be two 3/8" metal dowels, rather than threaded fasteners. Don't lose these, and take note of their position - they're necessary to align the engine/tranny for reinstallation."
          Misaligned of the tramsission without these alignment dowels inserted in the rear engine plate, the normal operation of the clutch will be affected.
          Driving a 1973 TR6
          Doing ZS carb repairs
          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

          Comment


          • #12
            Originally posted by poolboy View Post
            I think this what "Litespud" DaveC wrote is worth repeating:
            "At ~10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the bell housing, there should be two 3/8" metal dowels, rather than threaded fasteners. Don't lose these, and take note of their position - they're necessary to align the engine/tranny for reinstallation."
            Misaligned of the tramsission without these alignment dowels inserted in the rear engine plate, the normal operation of the clutch will be affected.
            Dave probably meant 8 o'clock and 2 o'clock for these two 3/8" dowels.

            Dick

            Comment


            • #13
              Yes, that's right....Bob Danielson to the rescue:
              http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/LocatingDowels.htm
              Driving a 1973 TR6
              Doing ZS carb repairs
              email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

              Comment


              • #14
                Out is easy compared to putting it back in!

                I did my first one in '77 in my 250. Non OD.

                Just did my 6 with OD last year, is it heavier or am I getting older, or both!

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                • #15
                  The gearbox was removed, rebuilt and reinstalled. It is quiet, shifts up and down effortlessly and is smooooth. Yesterday was the first drive and I savored every minute! I made every mistake one could make along the way and it took forever! I assembled, disassembled and reassembled the box so many times I could do it in my sleep. I am so proficient at taking the 3rd gear retaining clip off it only takes a few minutes. All the effort has made driving the car even sweeter!

                  Many thanks to Philstr6 for all the guidance. Also, thank you to all who have posted on this subject and replied to my posts.

                  Hmm, what will the next project be? Maybe rear diff, shafts and hubs or front suspension.
                  JHowe

                  Comment


                  • SapphireBlue72
                    SapphireBlue72 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Philstr6 did an excellent job rebuilding my rear hubs. He has the correct Churchill tooling and he knows how to use it. Very reasonable & quick, too.

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