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TR250 oil filter/canister

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  • TR250 oil filter/canister

    can't remove oil filter canister- won't fit between engine and D/S inner fender/fuel pump/tach drive cable

  • #2
    Welcome to 6-Pack. New members are required to post pictures of their cars. I wish I had an answer other than, can it come out the bottom?
    1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

    1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

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    • #3
      Why are you wanting to remove it ? Are you going to replace it with a spin-on filter adapter or just want to clean the insides or what ?
      Driving a 1973 TR6
      Doing ZS carb repairs
      email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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      • #4
        I used to just unbolt the slave cylinder and remove the canister from the bottom-before defecting to the spin on adapter.
        Berry

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        • #5
          When I used canister style, I would just rotate it so I could replace the filter. Then rotate it back into place and reinstall.
          1973 TR6 – BRG with beige interior, custom LED lighting
          Hardtop, OD, Rollbar, 15”Koenigs
          Bored, balanced and polished motor with Kastner/TSI S2 Cam
          Header, custom exhaust, custom alternator, e-fan
          Lowered, poly suspension, Konis and rear anti roll-bar
          www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by oppositelocksmith View Post
            When I used canister style, I would just rotate it so I could replace the filter. Then rotate it back into place and reinstall.
            ..Agree, +1
            Last edited by tr6harris; 03-09-2019, 12:24 PM.
            '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
            Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
            Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
            Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
            Redlines always.
            My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

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            • #7
              Back in the 1900s when I had the factory replaceable element type Purolator filter I used to decouple the steering shaft at the rubber U-joint, swing it out of the way and remove the canister from above.

              Tom

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              • #8
                I have also found it easier to jack the car up (which you need to do any way to drain the oil) and move the slave cylinder out of the way. Easier on the back as you can relax or the floor, clean the canister out, with better control in lining the canister up.
                Do you have the hole in the inner wing to poke the socket extension through?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Willo View Post
                  I have also found it easier to jack the car up (which you need to do any way to drain the oil) and move the slave cylinder out of the way. Easier on the back as you can relax or the floor, clean the canister out, with better control in lining the canister up.
                  Do you have the hole in the inner wing to poke the socket extension through?
                  I have seen that hole on several cars, don't know if it was done by the dealer at the first oil change. I usually just used a ratcheting box end wrench.
                  Berry

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                  • #10
                    When I had my 250 back in the 70s I remember using a 5/8" ratcheting box wrench on the canister.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dingle View Post

                      I have seen that hole on several cars, don't know if it was done by the dealer at the first oil change. I usually just used a ratcheting box end wrench.
                      Berry
                      I bought my '73 new and sometime when the car was still under dealer warranty I was asked ;permission to cut a hole thru the inner fender to access the filter bolt. Sure makes removing and reinstalling the filter easier, using a ratchet with an 18 inch extension while standing on the outside of the car.

                      Dick

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                      • #12
                        I replaced my canister with a spin on last week. As stated previously I found it pretty easy to remove the old canister by unbolting the slave cylinder and pulling the canister out the bottom. You don’t have to remove the slave cylinder hydraulic line to do this.

                        BTW, is there a short filter that works with the spin on adapter? The Fram I am using is a little too close to the slave cylinder.
                        SR
                        73 TR6. HT/AC/OD
                        86 930
                        91 535i

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                        • #13
                          Plenty of them if you didn't tilt the adapter enough:
                          https://www.oilfilter-crossreference...rt/Fram/PH3614
                          OTOH if you do tilt it enough these are the big boys:
                          https://www.oilfilter-crossreference...rt/Fram/PH3600
                          Driving a 1973 TR6
                          Doing ZS carb repairs
                          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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                          • #14
                            Bought spin on adapter
                            my TR250 engine has the rare extra interior metal
                            Anyone else seen this issue?

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                            TR250 oil filter/canister

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