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My 6 Has Been In Storage 8 Years. Advice?

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  • My 6 Has Been In Storage 8 Years. Advice?

    My 6 has been in storage for 9 years. I had the fuel drained and my mechanic sprayed the cylinders and such. I had the carbs rebuilt around 2002. I was told some type of Voltron diaphragms were used. My question is what should I do to get it running? I was going to change all fuel lines and filter, spray wd40 in the cylinders, pour oil over the rockers, give the engine a spin without spark plugs, reinstall the plugs and give her a go. Any suggestions? Thanks in NH

  • #2
    A tablespoon of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder (not WD-40 which is like water).
    The metal fuel lines are probably okay, the fuel hoses may be questionable. (1/4" diameter from tank to fuel pump, 5/16" diameter from fuel pump to carbs.)
    The gas tank should be flushed for crud removal.
    The fuel pump should be opened to remove sediment.
    Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 02-09-2019, 07:08 PM.
    CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
    poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.


    • oppositelocksmith
      oppositelocksmith commented
      Editing a comment
      Fuel line sizes are backwards above. - it's 5/16 from tank to pump, 1/4 pump to carbs.

    • SapphireBlue72
      SapphireBlue72 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks, Jeremy.

  • #3
    Exactly that plus drive her gently, as though you were running in a rebuilt engine. You have not mentioned coolant, so drain, flush, check all hoses and connections. You will likely have brake issues, which is yet another reason to drive gently. Stay close by home or where you can get assistance if necessary. Take a phone with you, or have someone follow you.
    Depending upon where you have had her stored, wiring may have been found attractive by varmints.
    Drive for at least half an hour, bring the car home and shut it down. Check fluid levels. Allow the car to cool; you may want to park on a drip mat. You may discover some leaks. With a flash light, check engine block to look for evidence of leaks or seeps. Identify the sources, and correct as necessary. Tomorrow (Sir John Black’s birthday) would be a good day to make the drive, weather permitting.
    I hope nothing serious is found, and that you never have to be without the companionship of your car for so long again. Be sure that others will add to the list that I have suggested.


    • #4
      Mine was in storage about 15 years. I trailered it to my brother in law's repair shop and had my nephew replace all the rubber lines, drain the fluids and replace them Then they checked the brakes and started it up. Not sure what else they did but I have been driving it about two years now without any issues. I did rebuild the suspension this winter and minor rough running but Todd helped me work thru both of those issues. I will be following this thread as I just bought a 76 that has sat in a garage since 1985 after the owner died. I will follow the advice you get in getting it road ready.
      Somewhere years ago I found guidelines on how to wake up a stored car. I think it was actually an MG that was the subject of the article, I tried a google search but could not find it again.
      Last edited by HoosierMark; 02-09-2019, 07:39 PM.


      • #5

        This is the article I was talking about, I cannot access on the 6-pack website but found it thru google. It was provided by David Schmidt and he states it is from an MG start up list from Mr Anthony (Tony) Barnhill from the Autoist.
        Awakening a Sleeping MG : How-To Library - Your Online Car ...
        Apr 27, 2013 · Awakening a Sleeping MG. Checklist and procedure for starting an MG (or other similar classic British cars) that have been in long term storage. Back in 1995, I took my Vermillion Red 1979 MGB roadster off the road so its speedometer wouldn't "roll over"; it …
        • 8.9/10 (15)
        • Author: Tony Barnhill

        Last edited by HoosierMark; 02-09-2019, 08:37 PM.


        • #6
          So, Let's Wake Her Up:

          Put the car on 4 jack stands & remove wheels.
          If there was an old battery in her, remove it to exchange as a core for a new battery. Engine Compartment

          Disconnect fuel lines at carbs.
          Remove spark plugs & turn engine over by hand checking for compression at each spark plug hole (I'm not interested in the amount of compression, just that I still have it!)
          Install new battery (DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START ENGINE!)
          Turn ignition key on & allow fuel pump to drain any gas remaining in the tank (in the event you didn't drain it before laying car up, you'll probably have 'dead' gas in there.)
          If fuel pump doesn't operate, stop & rebuild fuel pump and repeat process of draining gas tank. While you're under there, replace all flexible gas lines to fuel pump.
          Adjust valves.
          Change engine oil and filter. (In cold months, I use 10W-40 Castrol; in warm months, I use 20W-50 Castrol.)
          Install new, properly gapped spark plugs.
          Rebuild distributor (if electronic, check manual closely).
          Install new spark plug wires.
          Check the ignition circuit for proper operation (AGAIN: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START ENGINE! At this point, all I want to know is if I have 'fire' at the plugs.)
          Drain all fluids (radiator, engine, transmission, rear end, brakes/clutch)
          Inspect radiator for signs of leakage (the proper way to store a radiator is with anti-freeze inside; you can tell if there's been any leakage by the tell-tale wierd, green patina on the core or along the edges of the tanks.). If there are signs of leakage, remove radiator for cleaning, pressurizing, and repair.
          Back flush the engine cooling system to remove any built-up crud.
          Replace engine thermostat.
          Remove the plug in the water pump & add a bit of grease.
          Remove all belts from front of engine.
          Bench check alternator/generator for proper operation.
          With proper spray cleaner, clean all Lucas wiring harness connectors. Once cleaned, coat them with a LIGHT film of conductive grease (I mean every one you can see with the hood up! Take 'em apart & clean both ends of the bullet connectors). Pay especially close attention to the fuse block.
          Replace all belts with new ones and reinstall alternator/generator.
          Reinstall the radiator along with all new hoses.
          Fill windshield washer tank.
          Refill the cooling system with the proper mixture of water and anti-freeze.
          Remove carbs & rebuild/clean them as necessary. Replace air filters.
          Inspect engine mounts & replace as necessary.
          Replace all fuel/vacuum lines in engine compartment.
          Replace fuel filter.
          If so equipped, renew all emissions items to include recharging charcoal canisters. If equipped, remove the hoses from the air pump & spray lithium grease up inside the pump.
          Turn engine over with ignition switch to check compression (AGAIN, DO NOT START ENGINE YET!) Underneath Car - Front

          Remove front rotors & check for warpage.
          Turn or replace rotors as necessary.
          Check calipers for proper operation.
          Replace all flexible brake lines.
          Install new brake pads. Underneath Car - Center

          Replace fluid in transmission with the same oil you put in engine.
          Grease universal joints/check for looseness.
          Inspect transmission mounts & replace as necessary.
          Visually inspect exhaust for rust/holes, proper installation, etc.
          Visually inspect underside of car for rust.
          Lubricate hand brake.
          Clean all Lucas wiring harness connections & coat with a LIGHT film of conductive grease. Underneath Car - Rear

          Remove brake drums. Visually inspect & replace/turn as necessary.
          Replace wheel cylinders (NO! Don't even try to repair - just replace them!)
          Install new brake shoes.
          Replace flexible brake line on passenger side of car.
          Drop gas tank & visually inspect for rust.
          Remove gas sending unit & check for free operation of arm.
          Have gas tank boiled/cleaned as necessary (I take mine to my local radiator repair shop).
          Install cleaned & newly painted gas tank.
          Replace all flexible fuel lines to fuel pump/gas tank.
          Fill rear end with SAE 90 Gear Oil.
          In trunk, if so equipped, replace flexible lines to vapor separator & gas tank. Don't take off jack stands yet!

          Put fresh gas in tank & pressurize fuel system to carbs.
          Clean all Lucas wiring harness connections & coat with a LIGHT film of conductive grease.
          Top off brake & clutch master cylinders.
          Bleed clutch slave cylinder & check for proper operation of clutch.
          Bleed brake system starting with driver rear wheel.
          Reinstall wheels & adjust rear brakes.

          FIRE 'ER UP!
          Allow oil pressure to come up & note where it stops at idle.
          Allow car to idle until temperature has come up to normal operation range.
          Make any adjustments to carbs or timing.
          Depress clutch & verify its proper operation.
          Check operation of transmission through all gears.
          Check operation of hand brake.
          Check operation of wheel brakes.
          TURN ENGINE OFF.
          Visually inspect for any leakage along gas, clutch & brake lines, at wheel cylinders & calipers, in cooling system.

          Install & balance new 185x70R14 tires (tubes also if wire wheels) - HEY! They're probably dry rotted!
          Install wheels, adjust rear brakes & take car off jack stands. Body

          Check operation of all exterior lights.
          Replace windshield wiper blades & check operation of wiper/washer system.
          Spray lithium grease door, hood, & trunk hinges and latching mechanisms.
          Install one of GEM Enterprises' emergency hood latches.
          Lubricate top bows, seat rails & adjusters.
          Check operation of all dash, interior, & trunk lights and switches.
          Clean all Lucas wiring harness connections & coat with a LIGHT film of conductive grease. Engine Compartment

          After engine has cooled down, readjust valves.
          Check/refill cooling system as necessary.
          Check engine oil level.

          NOW, it's time for a short test drive. Once around the block only. While driving, pay particular attention to status of gauges, check for proper operation of brakes, watch for tell-tale signs of smoke from exhaust. Back in the Garage

          Recheck all engine fluid levels.
          Check belt tension.
          Check clutch & brake master cylinder levels (look for signs of leakage in engine compartment, under dash, and on garage floor under car).
          Put car on jack stands.
          Recheck rear brake adjustment.
          Tighten lug nuts (or wire wheel center cap).
          Put her on the ground.

          At this point, feel free to drive down to the nearest filling station and fill up with 93-octane gas. I know, I know! Some of you are going to tell me that's not necessary. But, hey, that's all I ever put in my cars. I personally feel its needed all the time but should be used at least once every few tanks full.

          Then, after a good wash, wax, and interior detailing, she's ready for daily use. From this point on, follow the maintenance guidelines in your owner's manual. Enjoy! Tony
          81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8
          73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
          62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
          60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO


          • #7
            Thanks so much for the advice I will go through the breaks and such. My main concern is the engine. I did a rebuild on it a year or so before storage .And as I look at the plates on the car it actually been 10 years. I also installed a 5 speed Supra transmission 2 years before storage as well as having the rear hubs rebuilt. My main concern on the engine is the carbs, I have the triple Stromberg kit from Richard Good.. I don't want to pull the distributor to prime the oil because I don't want to have to mess with the timing so I was planning to spinning the engine without plugs.
            Last edited by Skytrooper 1960; 02-09-2019, 08:51 PM.


            • #8
              Wow Tush that's a great list. Some on it I never thought of. Thanks!


              • #9
                Originally posted by Skytrooper 1960 View Post
                My main concern on the engine is the carbs, I have the triple Stromberg kit from Richard Good..

                You may not know this, but poolboy is a Zenith-Stromberg expert.
                He has restored Z-S carbs for scores of Triumph owners- he's the best, and very affordable.
                If you are concerned about your Z-S carbs, it would behoove you to mail them to poolboy to check out.

                On my '72 TR6 the carbs had been rebuilt by a professional, but they weren't quite right.
                Poolboy got them so perfect that the car would idle nicely at 500 rpm's, and pull smoothly to redline, which is pretty astounding.

                If interested, you can send him a private message by clicking on his avatar.
                Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 02-10-2019, 09:01 PM.
                CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
                poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.


                • #10
                  Hey Tush. Regarding the last paragraph in your awesome instructions, why do I have to back in the garage? I prefer to drive in - you know forward. LOL.
                  Brian Cunningham
                  1973 CF4325U Overdrive has been added
                  "Liz's" Plate is: T-AH6


                  My 6 Has Been In Storage 8 Years. Advice?




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