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So I've done something very dumb...

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  • So I've done something very dumb...

    A buddy told me a gas station 15 miles away was selling Ethanol free gas and I should get it for the 6. I did and drove around happily for a month or so.

    I started the car a couple of weeks ago for a gas refill trip and fuel poured out of the bottom of one of the carbs. I once again did some searching on 6-pack and ended up replacing the plugs on the underside of the carbs. All was well again. I went to fill up with fuel again and saw this wasn't the same fuel as I used last time but was a higher octane rating. It lead me to realize that the first out first time around I put in E85 !

    Amazingly the only problem I've had so far is the carb leak. I've ordered new 1/4" fuel line and a plastic fuel filter. What other parts should I replace? I've looked at fuel stabilizers and treatments etc. but some sage advice would be appreciated on what to do.

    Hoping my 6-pack membership will not be revoked for harm done to this fine car...

    Thanks for any suggestions.
    Phil

  • #2
    I would check (close look at gaskets, seals, etc.) and clean carbs as necessary, check valves and clearance, pull and inspect plugs. Ethanol “cleans” engines and fuel systems, which means that it partially dissolves carbon and other deposits, and then deposits the chunky bits left somewhere downstream. If anything suspicious appears, a close inspection of the intake manifold is warranted. What you REALLY don’t want is something more or less solid finding its way into the cylinder, and it doesn’t have to be big.

    A few tanks of decent fuel should be sufficient to get your baby beyond the scary part. Look at it this way: This is a really great excuse for a thorough spring tune up before driving season. Sale of ethanol should be limited to grog shops and pubs.

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    • #3
      Check the oil on your engine's dipstick for the odor of gasoline and the carburetor air filter as well, just in case it was not as simple as a leaking float chamber
      Driving a 1973 TR6
      Doing ZS carb repairs
      email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Click image for larger version  Name:	image_2169.jpg Views:	2 Size:	307.2 KB ID:	519852

        TR6 fuel line is 1/4" diameter between the fuel pump and the carbs.
        Fuel line is 5/16" between the tank and the fuel pump. Your plastic fuel filter may have 1/4" diameter size fittings, so just check that it fits tightly.

        A fuel cut-off valve (Briggs & Stratton $5. part)- as shown in lower right of photo- can be used to run your carbs fairly dry by shutting the valve and let your engine die from fuel starvation.
        This is one way to stop fuel leaks while the car is stored.
        Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 02-08-2019, 09:47 PM.
        Walt
        CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
        poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

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        • #5
          Thanks all. Will be working on it this weekend. Any chemicals that might help or the fact I went through the tank with the bad gas and now have refilled with ethanol free gas sufficient?

          Comment


          • #6
            I think there's been too much emphasis on obtaining ethanol free fuel....my engine runs better on 89 Octane 10% ethanol than 87 octane ethanol free.
            As far as the effect on rubbery bits in the carburetors, I see no detrimental effect....I can not however rule out a destructive effect on the plastic screen in some brands of fuel pumps....It happens, but whether or not ethanol is the true culprit, I wouldn't stake my reputation onit.
            Driving a 1973 TR6
            Doing ZS carb repairs
            email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

            Comment


            • #7
              imho, if you had already replaced the rubber "bits" - hoses, etc., to tolerate the usual E10 we get, then the E85 shouldn't destroy very much at all. Skip's comment on the detergent effect of ethanol is another matter - the fuel filter should trap any garbage picked up up to that point; some people add a second filter after the fuel pump to clean again. I would also add some Stabil Marine to the tank to stabilize (no pun intended) the ethanol so it doesn't separate out (iirc that was called "phase separation"). I've had good luck with Stabil not only in the TR6 but in all my yard equipment. I've left E10 in things like my garden tractor and snow blower for months without problems.

              I would be more worried about low octane than ethanol at this point - one 6-packer did serious damage to his engine a few years ago when he bought bad gas while out on the road.
              1976 TR-6 BRG - CF57239U
              Carbs by Poolboy
              Rear Camber Kit, Rear Hubs by Goodparts
              Gear Reduction Starter by TSI
              Distributor by British Vacuum

              Comment


              • #8
                I don’t think that adding anything to the tank would either help or harm. Ethanol will burn, obviously; it is used to increase octane in lesser grade gasoline.
                The harm in it is that over time when the car is idle, ethanol allows for the condensation of more water, then a greater risk of rust forming in the tank, and being drawn through the line, etc., etc. In the short term, it acts as a solvent, thus It deteriorates rubber bits, plastics, and the ordinary gunk that accumulated over time. It probably was not a direct cause of your carb leaks as much as simply accelerating the failure of parts that were vulnerable. The high concentration of ethanol in E85 is clearly something to be avoided; manufacturers of today’s cars do not recommend it unless the car has been manufactured to use it. Poolboy made a great suggestion that you check the dipstick for evidence of fuel.
                Given a choice, I would choose ethanol-free fuel only because I can never be sure when the next outing might be, and I don’t want to invite the effects of increased condensation. I do add a stabilizer in winter months for that reason. Unfortunately, in the Land of Enchantment, where damned little corn is grown, ethanol at 10% is unavoidable. Polly has not joined me here yet, but her roommate, a 1967 MG named Annie, has adapted without complaint other than slightly reduced efficiency even after leaning the mixture to accommodate elevation.

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                • #9
                  So I do indeed smell gas on the dipstick. I'll change the oil and filter. I assume the leaky carb caused it so if I've fixed that I should be ok?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    No, you only stopped the leak at the bottom of the fuel float chamber....that's just a gravity leak from the float chamber being overfilled....but the reason why you smell gas contamination in the motor oil is because there was an overflow from the float chamber being overfilled with gas due to malfunction of float chamber components that regulate the flow and level of gas within the float chamber...Do not run the engine until the problem is fixed because even though you've 'plugged' the external leak..all the excess gas will now overflow gas down the throat of the carb and drain into the sump with every stroke of the fuel pump, diluting and contaminating the motor oil...That's not good for the bearings.
                    You may also smell gas on the air filter element..depends on how long the engine ran under those conditions.
                    Last edited by poolboy; 02-10-2019, 05:14 PM.
                    Driving a 1973 TR6
                    Doing ZS carb repairs
                    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks again Ken. I did smell gas on the air filters. Sent you a mail.

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