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  • differential mount crack

    Picture attached. How would you have this beginnings of a crack repaired? Have the crack welded along with boxing in the exiting mount? Replace it all with a new mount? Keep in mind that I don't weld and was hoping just to have my stepson's friend who "welds" do the work.
    crack beginging

  • #2
    If it is cracked at the mount, as shown, then at the base of the pin there is probably a crack (at the cross-member).
    The unseen/un-shown crack at the base of the pin may be the more serious crack, as the pin may actually be loose/possibly detached at the cross-member (which would create a "clunk" sound), and merely wiggle at the diff mount.

    TRF sells a base plate with hole that gets fitted over the base of the pin at the cross-member. And welded over the base crack which, also, should be welded and ground down, smooth. Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCF1147 (2).JPG Views:	1 Size:	281.6 KB ID:	518243
    They sell a perfectly-sized new diff mount, and perfectly cut- to fit the sides- reinforcement plates. As well as a new pin which may have to be trimmed for correct length.

    You want to be certain that the threads at the bottom of the pin match the elevation of the left side pin, so the diff hangs level.

    You may be able to have the base & mount cracks welded without removing anything, if you get a talented welder.
    Folks have split a steel washer into two equal halves to weld over the pin base crack.

    In either case, you would want to have the side reinforcement plates welded on.
    Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 12-23-2018, 08:02 PM.
    Walt
    CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
    poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

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    • #3
      Looks terribly familiar. Here is my fix.


      http://coventrysfinest.blogspot.com/...al-mounts.html
      1973 TR6 – BRG with beige interior, custom LED lighting
      Hardtop, OD, Rollbar, 15”Koenigs
      Bored, balanced and polished motor with Kastner/TSI S2 Cam
      Header, custom exhaust, custom alternator, e-fan
      Lowered, poly suspension, Konis and rear anti roll-bar
      www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Ok, I ordered from TRF. Now to find someone competent who will weld while my car is on jack stands. ugh

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        • #5
          At least have the stepson's friend have a look....It doesn't have to be pretty and it doesn't have to pass an X-ray for it to do the job.
          Driving a 1973 TR6
          Doing ZS carb repairs
          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Question... how do you take out the old mount? Is that something who ever is going to weld the new one in would do? My plan is just to replace the right one, but to box in both.

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            • #7
              With just that crack shown, unless you see a crack in the cross memeber at the top of the pin, I don't see any sense in doing anything other than boxing in the sides and welding that crack shut.
              Driving a 1973 TR6
              Doing ZS carb repairs
              email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

              Comment


              • TR6quebec
                TR6quebec commented
                Editing a comment
                I agree with PoolBoy, that is what I've done without any problem, no need to remove body......☹

            • #8
              The top by the cross member also has the same kind of line around it. About the same size just more curved.

              So I guess the whole thing should be replaced and the base plate added which creates the new problem for me which is remove of the old mount.
              Last edited by SCguy; 12-23-2018, 09:59 PM.

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              • #9
                Click image for larger version

Name:	UNDERSIDE of TR6 001.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	1,003.3 KB
ID:	518252
                Like "oppositelocksmith"....Just use the TRF side plates since you ordered them and do what he did....or less cleaned up like mine.
                Last edited by poolboy; 12-23-2018, 10:11 PM.
                Driving a 1973 TR6
                Doing ZS carb repairs
                email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                Comment


                • #10
                  Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCF1152 (2).JPG Views:	1 Size:	284.0 KB ID:	518255Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCF1150 (9).JPG Views:	1 Size:	378.4 KB ID:	518254

                  This pic is from my old car. The right front diff mount had been replaced with a poorly matched, homemade version.
                  With a grinder, which is a cutting wheel, it could be cut off. And a new, replacement mount welded on.
                  From the Triumph factory, the welding wasn't particularly impressive.

                  However, what poolboy is saying is that- if your welder can weld the base crack at the pin (by working under the diff mount)- there is no necessity to actually remove & replace the entire (existing) diff mount.
                  An big advantage to not removing the existing mount & pin, is that you can be assured that the diff mounting position will require no special fiddling to refit the differential.

                  What some welders can do is to first weld the base crack, grind the weld smooth, then weld something like a split-in-half steel washer around the pin, at the base crack, for reinforcement.
                  Then use your side reinforcement plates.

                  This will make the diff mount strong enough that it won't move or make any "clunk" noise.

                  A skilled welder can do fancy acrobatics, a beginner not so much.

                  It might be a good idea to remove the cross-over brake line so brake fluid doesn't get boiled. It is a simple matter of undoing a fitting at either end of the brake line.
                  Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 12-23-2018, 10:44 PM.
                  Walt
                  CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
                  poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Agreed completely with Ken and Walt. Weld the cracks in the old mount, box it in and move the brake line out of the way while doing so.
                    1973 TR6 – BRG with beige interior, custom LED lighting
                    Hardtop, OD, Rollbar, 15”Koenigs
                    Bored, balanced and polished motor with Kastner/TSI S2 Cam
                    Header, custom exhaust, custom alternator, e-fan
                    Lowered, poly suspension, Konis and rear anti roll-bar
                    www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Whatever method you use I would reinforce all of them while the diff is out.
                      1976 TR6 originally white now Porsche Voodoo Blue
                      Frame off resto started May 2015
                      Tshirts and TA boxes replaced
                      Diff braced and reinforced
                      Engine and head rebuilt
                      Header and Intake ported
                      SS exhaust
                      Floors repaired, new metal at rear bumper mounting points
                      New Rockers
                      AAW wiring - GM alternator
                      Complete suspension and brake rebuild, poly bushings

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Follow up to my original question...

                        After a bit of frustration trying to nail down/schedule a "Craigslist" portable welder to repair and reinforce my differential mounts. I gave up and had my car flat bedded to a local shop where my TRF plates where welded in for $200. The job took two hours and I was able then to have my car towed back home again. Thanks to Hagerty insurance the towing was free. With the differential out, I replaced all of the seal and axel bearings (thanks Phil) and installed new differential bushings. Lastly, I installed a new muffler as mine had a hole it it. As a side note to the job, while my car was up on jack stands I painted the frame with POR15 and treated the insides with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Black.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Nicely done!
                          1973 TR6 – BRG with beige interior, custom LED lighting
                          Hardtop, OD, Rollbar, 15”Koenigs
                          Bored, balanced and polished motor with Kastner/TSI S2 Cam
                          Header, custom exhaust, custom alternator, e-fan
                          Lowered, poly suspension, Konis and rear anti roll-bar
                          www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Yep, nice job.

                            Cheers
                            Tush
                            81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8
                            73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
                            62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
                            60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO

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                            differential mount crack

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