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Driveshaft Removal with Transmission

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  • Driveshaft Removal with Transmission

    I am going to replace my STD transmission with a J type transmission. I intend to take the trans out while leaving the engine in. Can the driveshaft be removed out the front without removing any exhaust pipes? I want to replace the u joints. Thx Scott in CA I have a 1973 car.
    Last edited by smaceng; 12-23-2018, 12:19 PM.
    1973 TR6

  • #2
    I just took look under mine - granted it's a '72 with an A-type. With the transmission out, I don't see anything stopping the driveshaft coming out the front - certainly not the stock exhaust. The only thing that might get in the way would be whatever you're using to support the motor with the tranny out. I use an adjustable stand with a piece of 2x4 under the engine back plate or the oil pan. Either would be right in the path of the drive shaft as it comes forward
    Dave C
    '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
    Chapel Hill NC

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    • #3
      Scott
      you wont have any problem taking the driveshaft out thru the front with the standard trannie out of the way
      Phil

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      • #4
        Thanks phil. Great meeting you a couple of weeks ago!!!
        Scott in CA
        1973 TR6

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        • #5
          As this is my first time removing the transmission on my 1973 TR6, please bear with me. I have disconnected the driveshaft at both ends and unbolted the rear transmission mounting bolts. Is the next step to jack up the rear of the transmission, and pull the driveshaft out forward and under the left side of the transmission? One person said he put a 2x4 under the tail shaft and supported by the floor. Once I get the driveshaft out, will there be enough clearance between the back of the driveshaft mount and the rear driveshaft cover to clear the clutch as it comes rearward? Or do I need to take out the rear driveshaft cover and carpet? Thx Scott in CA
          1973 TR6

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          • #6
            Scott
            just leave the driveshaft as you have it,pull the trans out and then the driveshaft will exit real easy,
            Phil

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            • #7
              So I got the transmission out.....I had a helper.....put the front up on high jack stands ...one jack under the oil pan.....one under the transmission....took out the tailshaft mounting bolts....loosened the motor mounts (not sure if I had to do this)….I was underneath, helper was on top......used a pry bar to pull the trans back and out. I spent more time worrying about how I was going to do it than it took to take it out. Now....when it comes time to getting it back in, I bet getting to all the mounting bolts will be fun!!! Scott in CA
              1973 TR6

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              • #8
                You know about the alignment dowel pins, right, Scott ?
                Driving a 1973 TR6
                Doing ZS carb repairs
                email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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                • #9
                  yes, my existing trans did not have them.....they are on order!
                  1973 TR6

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                  • #10
                    I would suggest that after installing your new u- joints in the driveshaft, take it and have it balanced. Cost is about 40-50 bucks. Well worth it.

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                    • #11
                      So I thought I would update the conversion to J-type overdrive. PhilsTR6 went through the 4-speed/overdrive to make sure it was in good shape......replaced the solenoid, switches, sychros, laygear bearings, etc. He is highly recommended. Getting the 4-speed out was not much trouble....I removed both seats, rear trans mount, and it came out easily. So getting it back in was no joy in Triumph land. I loosened the motor mount bolts, jack under the engine, and jack under the trans. Removed the rear mount as trans needed to go up higher to mate up with the engine. There is a bracket that mounts to the frame which must be unbolted and moved backward into the holes provided. The new trans mounts were much, much harder than what was in there, which were OK. Worked at it for 1/2 to 3/4 hour until it finally went in. Reinstalled the rear mount and all was good. Installed the trans/engine bolts and the two dowel pins. I used a right angle adaptor.....but the parts which goes into the transmission was too large by about .002" (grinding required). If I had to do it again, I would take out 6 of the motor mount bolts and let the engine rotate up to mate with the trans. I used a gearshift knob (Chinn) with a built in switch to activate the overdrive (see pic). Overdrive works great.....engages slowly, no sudden jerks or sounds.
                      Since I had the tunnel out, I installed LEDs for the gauges ….I can see them at night now! BTW, put in new Ujoints in the driveshaft....had it balanced, and a good thing I looked at it as it was clocked wrong.
                      Cheers, Scott in CA Click image for larger version  Name:	thumbnail.jpg Views:	1 Size:	105.3 KB ID:	519971Click image for larger version  Name:	thumbnail1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	165.7 KB ID:	519972
                      1973 TR6

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                      • poolboy
                        poolboy commented
                        Editing a comment
                        That's cool..happy motoring!

                    • #12
                      Pulled my trans out and replaced clutch and trans by myself. Much easier coming out than putting back in, that's for sure! One day I'll switch to an OD and do it all over again.. I like the OD switch on the knob!
                      Mark

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                      • #13
                        I did my non od trans on my 250 about 35 years ago.

                        it was much easier than re installing my od trans in my 70 TR6. I think the od creates an imbalance when trying to re install. A bit of a bear.

                        I even had a 275lb linebacker helper.

                        Then again, I'm not as young as I used to be!

                        That was 9 mos ago, car is still up on blocks!

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                        Driveshaft Removal with Transmission

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