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  • Clutch Kit - help!

    Greetings! Looking for some advice. Have 76 TR6 with little over 100k miles, PO rebuilt the engine, no info on clutch/gear box. Having some clutch issues - same as seeing in the posts, stiff, chirping, hard to get into reverse. Looking to pull trans over the winter and replace clutch, TO bearing, sleeve, fork, fork tube - pretty much all of it.

    Have read all of the Buckeye articles, which look to be around 2002ish. Have read through a lot here. Looking at the TRF Magic Clutch kit - but worried about the Koyo TO bearing. Buckeye at that time did not recommend the Koyo bearing due to stiffness, but noted using springs to either engage the bearing with enough load to spin it, or enough force to keep it disengaged from the clutch fingers was a possible solution.

    The Buckeye config to get to 100K miles was new clutch, Gunst TO; steel sleeve with spring loading to keep TO bearing engaged with fingers. Have looked for info after his install, but not seeing it. Did find a post with that config, less the spring load and they had finger wear with the Gunst TO bearing.

    So, all that said, what is the experience with the TRF Magic Clutch (without the spring assist)?

  • #2
    Jimb, over the years i think ive used them all, laycock, borg/beck and quantum. After many clutch issues over the years including a broken fork pin I went with the TRF magic clutch kit and have been very happy with it. Good feel, has a good pedal engagement point, no noise. Most of my problems were with RHP throwout bearings. I got the magic clutch clutch 4 years and approx 30k miles ago with no problems. The kit at the time did include a Koyo bearing, a sachs cover plate and a powertune disk. I also did add the secondary bolt to the throwout bearing fork. I think it would be a good choice.

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    • #3
      tr6ed' - Thank You! that's exactly what I'm looking for! I do plan to add the second bolt in the new fork as well. Appreciate the feed back!

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      • #4
        jimb, I forgot to mention, i also went with the bronze throwout bearing carrier/sleeve. Also dont forget to use the alignment dowels included in the kit. Good luck with your project.

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        • #5
          I also used the TRF magic clutch kit when I finished up my restoration 9 years ago. I probably have 15K miles on it since then with no trouble at all (other than needing to install the .75" bore clutch MC to get more travel at the SC). As TR6ED said, you must use the alignment dowels between the bell housing and the engine plate to keep everything in alignment.

          1972 TR6, CC75294L
          W58 5 speed / Eaglegate conversion
          Goodparts rear hubs, trailing arm brackets and steering rack mounts, Prestige Autowood Hawaiian koa wood dash panel

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          • #6
            I've used the TRF kit since the 1900s in both of my Webered '250s. I've got steel TOB sleeves in them, and don't have extra pinning in the forks ( I make sure the pin seats on the taper and not the head - this is critical ). Best I've experienced in 42 years of uninterrupted TR250 ownership including B&B and Laycock clutches. They did their homework on this kit which comprises components from (3) different mfrs.

            Tom

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            • #7
              Beware that TRF does not normally supply carriers with the anti-rotation pin. Some have used them as is but I had a terrible squeal from the carrier for a 100 or so miles after the install until the transmission was pulled again and the sleeve replaced with one with a pin. I run the Koyo bearing with no spring loading - not a problem and quiet now for about 6 years with the pinned carrier. I did crossbolt the fork with a grade 8 bolt as per Buckeye article.
              Last edited by lfmTR4; 12-07-2018, 06:34 PM.
              I72 Pimento w/overdrive

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              • #8
                Just did my 75 and used the Magic Clutch set up. My clutch is great now! I'm not an expert but I did the job myself and the clutch feels great now. I also like that if you use the complete set up it has a warranty as well.

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                • #9
                  Thanks all for responding! Will order the TRF kit, have seen much on the alignment pins for install, will add grade 8 bolt in the fork,

                  IfmTR4 - pinned carrier? - want to make sure i've got that strait! Thanks!

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                  • #10
                    The throw out bearing carrier has what’s called an anti-rotation pin across the groove where the fork pins ride. It is there to keep the carrier from spinning on the snout so that the bearing does all the turning. A while back a TRF mechanic thought it wasn’t needed so they started omitting it and not drilling the carrier and inserting that pin. I got one of those and installed it after conferring with the TRF mechanic that in fact he had good experience with it. Well that was a mistake and the carrier spun on the snout as the clutch was operated until the bearing took over making an annoying loud squeal. After about a hundred miles of use waiting for it to “bed”, I had Charles send me a pinned carrier and the transmission was pulled and the carrier changed out. The squeal went away. I will never install another carrier without the anti-rotation pin. You can see what I referring to in the Buckeye Triumphs articles or in a part breakdown schematic. Here is a picture that shows the pin across the fork pin groove

                    Click image for larger version

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                    Originally posted by jimb View Post
                    Thanks all for responding! Will order the TRF kit, have seen much on the alignment pins for install, will add grade 8 bolt in the fork,

                    IfmTR4 - pinned carrier? - want to make sure i've got that strait! Thanks!
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by lfmTR4; 12-09-2018, 11:34 PM.
                    I72 Pimento w/overdrive

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Click image for larger version

Name:	
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ID:	517902 Here's another picture:
                      On the left is a Gunst type bearing and an unpinned bronze carrier. On the right is a Koyo bearing and a pinned steel carrier.
                      Driving a 1973 TR6
                      Doing ZS carb repairs
                      email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jimb View Post
                        Thanks all for responding! Will order the TRF kit, have seen much on the alignment pins for install, will add grade 8 bolt in the fork,

                        IfmTR4 - pinned carrier? - want to make sure i've got that strait! Thanks!
                        jimb --- Regarding the "pinned" bearing carrier, the Gunst bearing that I had used many years ago came with the pin installed. The carrier sleeve was bronze, which may have better anti-squeal properties than the steel carrier. Regardless, it would make sense that the bearing should be the part that spins when the clutch goes thru the disengagement/engagement process and not the carrier sleeve.
                        Before the Gunst bearing and bronze sleeve and the Koyo bearing was available, and In conversations with TRF (Dave) we talked about giving the RHP bearing longer life. The thought was that the carrier should be allowed to spin on the front cover. No doubt it would've helped the RHP, but the price paid is excessive wear on the front cover. I'm in the camp with the anti-spin pin and the bronze carrier for its better built in lubrication qualities.

                        Dick
                        Last edited by dicta; 12-10-2018, 02:30 AM.

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                        • #13
                          Pictures are priceless - see it clearly, and will look for that in the sleeve in the kit, or will definitely install if missing. Forgot to mention earlier, I did replace the clutch MC, slave, lines, went to the .75 dia slave as safire6 indicated, it did help, but still had the other issues.

                          Thank you - lfmTR4, dicta, and poolboy!

                          Side note - poolboy, when I first bought the car, had some challenges with the ignition system (40 year old fuzzy wires in the dizzy - found it the hard way on the way to the Mitty, a long story........) changed it all out, coil, dizzy plates/wiring - did stay with points. I originally tuned it with the timing light, till I found your vacuum method - I'm sold, worked great!

                          Thanks!
                          Jim

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                          • #14
                            Jim, we better see you at the Mitty this year! No excuses now that you have forum help!
                            1973 TR6 – BRG with beige interior, custom LED lighting
                            Hardtop, OD, Rollbar, 15”Koenigs
                            Bored, balanced and polished motor with Kastner/TSI S2 Cam
                            Header, custom exhaust, custom alternator, e-fan
                            Lowered, poly suspension, Konis and rear anti roll-bar
                            www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Btw Jim, I too now have the Magic clutch kit in my car but with a steel pinned carrier. Works very well.
                              1973 TR6 – BRG with beige interior, custom LED lighting
                              Hardtop, OD, Rollbar, 15”Koenigs
                              Bored, balanced and polished motor with Kastner/TSI S2 Cam
                              Header, custom exhaust, custom alternator, e-fan
                              Lowered, poly suspension, Konis and rear anti roll-bar
                              www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com

                              Comment

                              Clutch Kit - help!

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