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  • #31
    Click image for larger version  Name:	 Views:	1 Size:	93.0 KB ID:	516962 It's not as simple as just replacing the rings...but if you watch what you do and use the proper technique, you can prepare the bore for new piston rings with the engine still in the car.
    I used a flex-hone here....I will admit it turned out better this time than it did the first time I did this block a few years earlier.
    Last edited by poolboy; 11-05-2018, 10:52 PM.
    Driving a 1973 TR6
    Doing ZS carb repairs
    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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    • #32
      is there a specific black that matches the original look of the engine block?

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      • #33
        well my project is progressing along. i now have the pan off. first off nothing in the pan that looked bad. just a little sludge build up on the bottom. that was good.

        as most suspected my end play on the crank was out of spec. it showed .0115 on the dial gauge. so i pulled the thrust bearings. they both measured .092 which i believe is standard size so i ordered new ones along with a set of +.005 ones. on my old ones the back bearing had started to delam a little. but mostly looked good. on the rod bearings, they looked pretty good also. no brass showing on the tops or bottoms. but since i opened them up, i went ahead and ordered new ones.

        Dropped the head at the machine shop today. the valves looked good. not recessed enough to show. machine shop thought they were fine. So keeping the same valves and just having a regrind on the seats. i did order new valves, guides and springs. replacing them all. also having them tank the head, oil pan and timing cover. plus replace the freeze plugs in the back. i have ordered all the parts which should be here next week. i used this same shop for the Healey last winter and i thought they did a good job.

        Also sent the Dizzy off to British Vacuum unit to have it recurved with advance. thay also did my Healey.

        Tomorrow the rocker assembly goes out to Rocker Arms Unlimited to be rebuilt. again they did a nice job on the Healey.

        Not much i can do right now but clean and paint. i do not want to move the crank until i can put the new rod bearings in. In preparation for doing the setting the cam timing, i made a plate today that will act as my piston stop and help me to measure the valve timing/overlap and lift. saw this on the internet and had some scrap aluminum to use so i figured i would give it a try. not real pretty but it was free to make. the rods i have acting as pushrods have a nut/washer on the bottom. i plan to get a spring to put between the plate and the washers on the rods to keep them pushed down. we shall see how it works.
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        • #34
          Your endfloat measurement with both the TW's still .092 is roughly the same as I've seen many times posted here before and that makes me wonder how critical the book spec really is....OR should I say 'wonder how closely it was actually adhered to in the assembly plant ?'.....
          Last edited by poolboy; 11-08-2018, 11:58 PM.
          Driving a 1973 TR6
          Doing ZS carb repairs
          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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          • #35
            put in my new TW's today. checked the measurements before putting them in. added a standard one and a +5 one. the end float after that came out to about .0045. So i guess my digital micrometer did not give me the best readings on the original ones. they must have been closer to .091 than .092. that would mean i added .007 to the total TW's and deducted the same from the endfloat as oppsed to the .005 i thought i was adding.

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            • #36
              i have been trying to time my cam for my engine. i was getting numbers i could not figure out. it seemed i was either 4* retarded or 5* advanced. anyway after some thinking and figuring, i decided to pull off my timing block and check the lift on the cam. the numbers were not coming out right so i pulled the cam this morning. that was my issue. the front lobe was .010 less than the second one. And neither were good. also lobes 3 and 4 also were not close to spec. 5-12 were ok but a couple of them were suspect as well.
              So this morning i ordered a new cam from BPNW. i went with the same stock one i have. also they had shortened pushrods that were not terribly expensive so i got 12 of them. with that i plan to shave the head even more and shoot for the 9:1 CR.
              i have replaced all the rod bearings and the bottoms of all the main bearings.... this is turning in to a job... ha. Now a new cam...

              My machine shop guy is out hunting this week so while i wait for the head and other parts (diz, rocker arms, and now a cam) i will start cleaning and painting parts. filled the wash tank this afternoon...

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              • #37
                still waiting for the new cam to arrive so this week has been a week of cleaning, blasting and painting... just when you think you got them all done, you find another. but it is fun deciding colors and making some fun changes. one table of parts...
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                • SapphireBlue72
                  SapphireBlue72 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  You're really into it.
                  I lightly sanded my overflow bottle, it looked white again.

              • #38
                i have time, and a blast cabinet, so cleaning and painting is a simple process. pretty much done now. just some small parts i am sure i will find after i start putting back together.

                speaking of that, parts are starting to come back in. my new cam showed up Monday and today my rebuilt Diz came home. Note the vac advance... i was advised by Rob at British Vac Unit to turn my diz drive gear one tooth CCW when installing. not sure i understand why but i will do it. starting to get excited about getting it back together now.
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                • #39
                  update:
                  Got my head back from the machine shop late this past week. all shaved and cleaned with new valves, springs and guides. Looks pretty good. a quick paint job on the edges, some cleaning of the passages and it was ready to mount. i did one last clean of the cylinders and wiped the top down one last time. hopefully the last time i ever see the pistons on this engine....
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                  So it is on to assembly. a little tricky getting a nut on the bolts that holds the bi-pass collant line from the engine bay. but i got it. next after i had everything torqued down i did a quick leakdown test on each cylinder. No rocker assembly installed so all the valves are closed. i know the engine was cold. but every other test i had done showed a drop off in compression or leakage in cylinders 4 and 5, making me think i had a bad head gasket. but i was not certain. today all my readings came out at 5%. the reading itself is not as big a deal as all cylinderss giving the same reading. makes me feel better this was the issue.
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                  • #40
                    Here's one reason why your distributor guy said to move the distributor timing gear one tooth CCW. If your gear slot is oriented to 240 deg., as shown in some of the TR6 Repair Manuals, the spark timing is generally happier when rotor is closer to the #1 cap terminals when at 214 deg. One tooth is 360/14 or 25+ deg. of change. The damper timing mark should be close to "0" with #1 piston firing when this rotor position is seen.

                    Dick
                    Last edited by dicta; 12-03-2018, 02:04 AM.

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                    • #41
                      Dick
                      Thanks for the info. i think i understand but wondering, why weren't car built this way? retarded timing?

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                      • #42
                        Originally posted by Drone Dog View Post
                        Dick
                        Thanks for the info. i think i understand but wondering, why weren't car built this way? retarded timing?
                        Drone --- Can't say for sure, it could be that the illustration in the service manuals show the slot angle (at 240 deg.) in the wrong place, and the factory had it the way found to be better when clocked at 214 deg. I do know that the first time I had the engine down far enough to use the Repair manual for reassembly I used the Illustration that shows the 240 deg. angle for #1 spark. After finding some hesitation , stuttering and arcing going on under the cap, I jumped the drive gear one tooth CCW. This places the rotor in a better position for the spark jump. The underside of the cap, after many thousands of miles now shows no erosion of the (aluminum) terminals.

                        But no, I don't think having the rotor at the 240 deg. angle will retard the spark, as this is still controlled by when the points or triggering device sends the signal.

                        Dick

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                        • #43
                          Dick
                          Again Thanks. but now i am wondering... how do i know if my gear was not already turned? And does it need to be turned now... or again?
                          My car ran fine and i have not seen any evidence of sparking under the cap.... although i have run Pertronix for the last few years. but the car was not having an issue there before the Pertronix either...

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                          • #44
                            progressing long on these cold days... not in any hurry since i am waiting on my rocker assembly. still trying to get a reply on when they will be done. Must be crazy out there at RAU.

                            i did get another item off my list though. that was adding a drain tap to the radiator. done by local shop in a couple of hours.
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                            • #45
                              Originally posted by dicta View Post

                              Drone --- Can't say for sure, it could be that the illustration in the service manuals show the slot angle (at 240 deg.) in the wrong place, and the factory had it the way found to be better when clocked at 214 deg. I do know that the first time I had the engine down far enough to use the Repair manual for reassembly I used the Illustration that shows the 240 deg. angle for #1 spark. After finding some hesitation , stuttering and arcing going on under the cap, I jumped the drive gear one tooth CCW. This places the rotor in a better position for the spark jump. The underside of the cap, after many thousands of miles now shows no erosion of the (aluminum) terminals.

                              But no, I don't think having the rotor at the 240 deg. angle will retard the spark, as this is still controlled by when the points or triggering device sends the signal.

                              Dick
                              Dick
                              after looking at the manual again i can see they have the gear set at the old twenty-to-two location. guessing moving it one tooth CCW, is probably noticeable. Thanks.

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