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Pertronics back to points...Part 2

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  • Pertronics back to points...Part 2

    Hey folks, I decided to start a new post regarding my switch back to points...because it's gotten really UGLY, thanks to my mechanical ineptness.
    Some you may recall after I changed out the pertronics Tillie wouldn't start. Poolboy and Jim Herter gave me some good advice which I followed, but still no joy.

    Keep in mind, when I did the rebuild on Tillie, I just sent the dizzy off to Jeff at Advanced, and when I got it back , I put it in the engine, set the timing and all was good...I had NO idea what went on inside the shiny housing.

    My trouble started when I realized the micro adjuster and the vacuum canister prevented my just "popping" out the Pertronics plate and dropping in the new points plate Jeff sent me. So, I just started taking out screws...including the cam screw. Can you all see where this is going?

    Long story short, I ended up removing the dizzy, and searching the internet for pictures of how it should go back together. So, after much wailing and gnashing of teeth, I got the everything put together and installed back in the car....turned the key and she started right up and idled like a dream. Seemed too good to be true, and it was! BTW I set the timing using the "static" / light bulb method in my Bentley manual, then used my timing light once she started.

    Of course, since I had the dizzy out, I thought it would be a good time to replace my mechanical fuel pump and filter and install a fuel pressure gauge...I know, I know, was I crazy?? Any how, the gauge reads 4.5 psi, as I recall that seems a bit high??

    Now TIllie will idle great but has no power off idle...when I tried driving, she falls flat on her face.

    Edit: When Tillie is idling, the tach (converted by Morris) bounces all over the place. I called Morris, and he confirmed that it should work fine with both Pertronics or points as long as the lead to the coil is on the NEG terminal.
    What have I done wrong or what have I ruined !?! and no I don't want to sell her....yet !
    Last edited by Tripp74; 08-09-2018, 08:05 PM.
    Jim / NW Ohio
    "Tillie"... a '74 dressed like a '69 / CF14608U
    Blog: www.trippstr6.blogspot.com

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    Make sure that you have the above contact point details in the correct sequence. It matters.

    No power off idle...falls flat on her face.

    That sounds like the timing is incorrect. If you haven't already, try turning the distributor in slight increments- see if that makes a difference. I would try advancing, the idle may increase slightly.
    It may be something inside is not as it should be.

    The wild tacho needle is likely unrelated. Play with lubricating or adjusting the position of the cable, or replace it.

    On a concurrently running thread, fuel pressure should be around 3 psi, it has been written.
    Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 08-09-2018, 08:50 PM.
    Walt
    CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
    poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

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    • #3
      Yup, sounds like timing. I set mine by ear now but use the vacuum gauge as a back up. Might want to get one of those at the FLAPS, not very expensive. I turn the dizzy until vacuum tops out then turn it back 1" HG plus it can used to trouble shoot other things. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/...auge-readings/
      72 Pimento w/overdrive

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      • #4
        Thanks guys...Now I'm wondering if I put the mechanical advance weights back together wrong.
        It didn't seem like they moved much, but I couldn't figure but one way to put them in....

        The only reason I mentioned the tach was it's electronic and has to have a connection to the coil....seemed odd it acted up right after all my "messing" around.
        Jim / NW Ohio
        "Tillie"... a '74 dressed like a '69 / CF14608U
        Blog: www.trippstr6.blogspot.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Here are some photos...
          Jim / NW Ohio
          "Tillie"... a '74 dressed like a '69 / CF14608U
          Blog: www.trippstr6.blogspot.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Did you check the mechanical advance with a timing light? After having the dist. rebuilt, I noticed that it wasn't advancing. Turns out that the screw that holds the condenser down was slightly too long and touching something that prevented the breaker plate from moving.
            Berry

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            • #7
              Also, why is there a wire connected to the condenser hold down screw? Compare the pic of your dist with the one Saphires. This may also prevent the plate from rotating.
              Berry

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              • #8
                Originally posted by dingle View Post
                Also, why is there a wire connected to the condenser hold down screw? Compare the pic of your dist with the one Saphires. This may also prevent the plate from rotating.
                Berry
                Good catch on the condenser wire...that was how Jeff from Advanced sent it to me. Also, thanks for pointing out using my timing light to see if the mechanical advance is working. I'll get back to this mess I created later today and provide an update.
                Jim / NW Ohio
                "Tillie"... a '74 dressed like a '69 / CF14608U
                Blog: www.trippstr6.blogspot.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  If the "black" wire is not staked to the points plate, securing it to the condenser screw tab is an alternate method.....but if the screw extends too far it might interfere with the vacuum retard action and in this case the micro adjustment, but it won't interfere with centrifugal advance...which functions by rotating the cam, not the points plate.
                  Driving a 1973 TR6
                  Doing ZS carb repairs
                  email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You are right PB. The vac adv or retard is produced by the breaker plate movement, the mechanical advance involves the cam.
                    Berry

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      We have lift off !!

                      The first thing I did was make sure the mechanical advance was working...it was, then I tested the low tension wire I made up going from the coil to the dizzy...tested good, so that left the points/condenser.
                      For those of you who saw my first post regarding this conversion, you may remember I initially put the low tension lead on the positive post, not the neg. Jim Herter pointed out the error of my ways and mentioned I may have cooked the points/ condenser. (too bad I didn't factor that in a lot earlier)

                      So I dug around in my box of "old" parts and found the original points/condenser. I swapped out the points/condenser, reset the timing and Tillie fired up... the electronic tach worked like normal, and I'm sitting here wondering how I got so far off base with this upgrade. BTW going back to points cured the "run on" issue I've had since the beginning (2014), and the idle appears to be much better.

                      Now all I need to do is call Jeff at Advanced, explain what a goof I am, and pay for a new set of points/condenser.

                      In hind sight, I sure have learned a lot about the magic the happens in the dizzy and hopefully will never repeat this experience!

                      Thanks to all that responded and gave much need advice!
                      Jim / NW Ohio
                      "Tillie"... a '74 dressed like a '69 / CF14608U
                      Blog: www.trippstr6.blogspot.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Glad to hear it worked out. And i Learned a lot from this thread
                        1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

                        1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I would expect only the condenser to have failed, not the new points.

                          Glad you nailed it.
                          '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
                          Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
                          Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
                          Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
                          Redlines always.
                          My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by tr6harris View Post
                            I would expect only the condenser to have failed, not the new points.

                            Glad you nailed it.
                            Ditto, point contacts don't care about polarity.
                            72 Pimento w/overdrive

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                            Pertronics back to points...Part 2

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