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A Tactical Paint Booth

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  • A Tactical Paint Booth

    It is amazing how much space all the exterior panels of the TR6 take up when you need to paint them. I'll have to do them in stages. This means a knock-down paint booth.

    http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-108/TR6-108.html

    Ed

    Click image for larger version

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    For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

  • #2
    Very nice, Ed. Good Write-up.
    Wondering what investment there is in your painting equipment?


    (I see on page 49 Body Tub Repair you have written about primer and epoxy spraying.)
    Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 06-12-2018, 08:26 PM.
    Walt
    CC80954 '72 TR6 original condition.
    poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

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    • #3
      Very nice ed, simple solution to a not simple problem.
      72 Pimento w/overdrive

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      • #4
        Very Nice Ed, any concerns about not enclosing the top of the booth?

        Cheers
        Tush
        81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8
        73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
        62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
        60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO

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        • #5
          Awesome Ed! I'll have to keep this in mind for later on! Was the fan a pusher or puller? Do you feel it was adequate to "clear" the air? I suppose if you wanted to enlarge it, just make extensions? Lighting was always my biggest problem, but buying a 10 set of LED from amazon will take care of that next time. I know what you mean about how much room these body parts take up!
          dne'

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Tush View Post
            Very Nice Ed, any concerns about not enclosing the top of the booth?

            Cheers
            Tush
            looks like it's got a top in picture chef.

            72 Pimento w/overdrive

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            • #7
              I built something similar. I used 1X4's and covered the framework with autobody plastic since it has a side that will accept paint, and I was concerned about standard plastic possibly
              dusting off dried paint onto my recently sprayed panels. My shop is all white inside like Ed's, and there are 3-8' twin tube fluorescent lights above the booth area. My booth was 9X15, and since I painted the final color as an assembled car, the booth was too small for my preference. I had a breathing air hose and the air hose for the gun, and it got pretty crowded. I used a 20" square furnace filter inlet, and a 20" square pleated outlet filter. The fan was a 20" box fan that I ran on full speed. I did not have any trouble with the epoxy primer or the color, but the clear caused a considerable fog in the booth, even to the point where I had to stop and wait for it to clear out. I expect I had a misadjusted gun or too much pressure. My compressor has a homemade cooler to remove water, and I used a media dryer in addition. Was there anything wrong? All of it! Too small, not enough air movement, not enough lighting, compressor too small. The paint supply company warned me of all this, but I went ahead and I'm glad I did. Concours? Heck no, but I did it, and that's what counts to me.

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              • #8
                Thanks for the feedback, everyone.

                There were a few questions---

                Originally posted by SapphireBlue72 View Post
                Wondering what investment there is in your painting equipment?
                Walt--Since I've acquired stuff over the years, I had to think about this. I use a 5 HP, 80 gallon compressor that was around $800 on sale, but it is used for a lot of things besides painting. I think a slightly smaller one would also work fine. My guns are DeVilbiss HVLP, but one of their cheaper ones, under $100. Regulators and oil and water traps are cheapies, but seem to work OK. I don't use a supplied-air respirator, but just a good quality organic vapor cartridge mask.

                Where the real cost comes in is the paint, primers, and other consumables.


                Originally posted by Tush View Post
                ...any concerns about not enclosing the top of the booth?
                Tush--Some of the pics don't show it well, but the booth has ceiling panels made just like the walls.


                Originally posted by Dne007 View Post
                Was the fan a pusher or puller? Do you feel it was adequate to "clear" the air? I suppose if you wanted to enlarge it, just make extensions?
                Dne'--The fan was blowing air out of the booth, so fresh air was coming in through the filters. I used a 22" box fan and it kept the air clear, but as Dens6 says, the real test is clearcoat, which I'm not using. In this design, I can easily extend the length of the booth, but the 10 foot width would be a little harder to change.

                In those cool new digs you have, you might find space to leave it set up full time!

                Ed
                Last edited by ed_h; 06-13-2018, 01:13 AM.
                For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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                • #9
                  I don't know how much truth there is about it, but I've read somewhere that positive air flow is better vs sucking the air out of the booth? Of course that would probably blow apart a booth if the fan was strong enough. When I get around to the '67 mustang, that will be a total rebuild, lots of paint work. So a whatever booth will be in order. I want to make a much safer environment with a new fresh air breathing system(mine was destroyed by Harvey). So, it would be a semi-permanent booth, like yours

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                  • #10
                    One last little bit; I used an el-cheapo spray gun from the Northern Store (Vaper??) to spray the epoxy and the high build primer. In a class I took at the local Community college, the
                    instructor commented that the high build especially was not critical since it would be blocked after application. The only drawback was that even though the gun was marked HVLP, it used considerably more air than the Devilbis
                    I used on color and clear. Also, I'm not entirely sure I would use BC/CC next time, as a friend used a color without clear, and could more easily repair issues. In my case, if, due to poor lighting or low talent, I cleared over a color sag, the repair is
                    to sand and recolor the entire panel, and then re-clear. Sanding the color changed the shade, and made any sanding obvious. So, there you have it.
                    Dennis

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                    • #11
                      Dennis--I hear you. I've only used BC/CC one time, on my Triumph motorcycle. It is a lot of work, and there a million things that can go wrong. It came out pretty well, but on a much larger car, I didn't want to tempt fate with my limited painting skill, so I opted for single stage. I believe BC/CC has a lot more advantages for metallic paints than it does for a solid color like I used on the TR6.

                      Dne'--A positive pressure booth (fan blowing in) would have the advantage that leaky joints between panels won't suck in unfiltered air. In my small booth, though, the fan created a little too much wind for my taste, so I used negative pressure and tried to minimize joint gaps. For a positive pressure booth, the panels need to be turned around (plastic on the inside), or, like you say, you'll end up with a big baloon.

                      Ed
                      For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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                      • #12
                        With a small booth, what are you going to do with the portion of the TR which will not unbolt......front valance, sills, door jambs, rear panel, and rear deck.
                        I ended up turning my front garage into a paint booth. Put in a whole house fan blowing out in the back garage, with filters in the window of the front garage. Never do that again.....all the color overspray was sucked into the rear garage and deposited on everything that was not covered. Used BC/CC, never had a problem with too much mist on the clear. It was a TON of work......I think I counted a minimum of 9 sprays.....sealer, high build, sealer, 3 of color and 3 of clear. Lots and lots of sanding. Even though I had 9 two bulb 4 ft. long fluorescent fixtures, it was still not enough light. Used a portable 1000 watt light which worked well.
                        My friends said 3M should send me a Christmas card based on how much sandpaper I bought!
                        Cheers,
                        Scott in CA

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                        • #13
                          Yes, the overspray is a problem. The sheet of plastic coming off the exhaust port in the pic below is to protect the brick paving from overspray. When I did my tub a few years ago with a bigger booth, I didn't take any special precaution, and had a definite eight foot streak of yellow on the bricks from the exhausted overspray. It took nearly two years for that color to wear off.

                          (I also had to confine the dogs when I sprayed. I didn't want to explain to my wife how our brown labs became yellow ones.)

                          Ed
                          Click image for larger version

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                          For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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                          • #14
                            Looks like everyone was using a 20" box fan for ventilation. Always was afraid to use one because they where not explosion proof. Am I over thinking this one?

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                            • #15
                              Nice “Lab” assistants!
                              1974 TR-6 Logic Overdrive

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                              A Tactical Paint Booth

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