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  • poolboy
    started a topic Blowin Smoke

    Blowin Smoke

    Just a little tale about what happened today to illustrate having proper crankcase ventillation.
    I decided to take Bill up to the hunting camp to see how my nephew was doing. It's about 40 miles up there. After going about 20 miles I began to smell burning oil. Since I had the valve cover off recently my thought was that I needed a little bit more torque on the nuts and some oil was dripping on the header. Figured no big deal, just wait until I got up there.
    I was hauling a$$ as it was and really got down on it a couple of times coming out of some sweeping curves. The smell got stronger when I did and a glance in the rearview showed me leaving a trail of smoke.
    I got kind P.O'd, but thought that since it started so suddenly that maybe, hopefully, I hadn't gone thru a set of rings.
    Well, when I got to the camp, I opened the bonnet, oil was coming out the valve cover and the dipstick as well as the exhaust pipes.
    Let me try one thing before I vomit. I pulled the valve cover vent tube off and gave it a good blow. At first I felt a little resistance and then it cleared.
    After visiting with my nephew, who had just missed the biggest buck he'd ever seen, I hit the road back toward home.
    I ran it hard, constantly looking for smoke and the smell. Maybe a little the first mile, but then all was good.
    Moral of the story. The ventillation of the crankcase via the low vacuum at the carbs is essential. Maybe there are other ways to accomplish it but I think that the boys at Coventry had it figured right.
    Call me relieved.

  • stitchit
    replied
    Thanks Ken,
    This last picture is the way I had it before I fitted the PCV valve, then had the vast oil leaks issues! I have now returned it to as before, I cleaned the engine, went for a good blast and it initially seems ok. I will keep you informed, now I need to find out why my nissan 200 diff wants to pump out the oil, I think I must have a blocked breather there as well!
    Thank you.
    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • poolboy
    replied
    Hey Greg.
    Once I eliminated all the extraneous stuff and hooked the carbs up directly to the evacuation ports on the carbs all those related problems went away.
    I think the Goodparts PCV kit "T'd" into the brake servo vacuum hose might be good for those using carbs other than the original ZS carbs that had the provision for evacuating the crankcase pressure thru the valve cover vent.
    This is the way the Goodparts kit installs using "HIS" PCV valve, which I think is a must. There are different valves and not all are appropriate.

    ...............
    Here is the way I cured the "Blowin Smoke" Blues with the engine that I was running when I started this topic.

    And here is the way I have the plumbing in my current engine:

    ..................
    And here is the way a TR4 dealt with it:


    .............
    If you have ZS carbs, I think you should take advantage of the engineering that went into the design and utilize the evacuation ports on the carbs.
    Since you are having problems, connect the Valve Cover to both like I started out, as seen in this picture:

    Then if you manage to get things under control, you might see if just one carb will do the job..It might

    Leave a comment:


  • stitchit
    replied
    Hi Poolboy,
    What was the outcome on this thread, I recently fitted a PCV valve only to have it block up fairly quickly. This caused the oil to blow out the valve cover of my alloy cover and just about every other hole as well. I removed it again.
    I fitted it thinking I was doing the right thing, now not sure what is right???
    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • poolboy
    replied
    Rick, the one Richard sent me is a V172 and appears to work only in the horizonal.
    I still haven't installed it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rick
    replied
    I am enjoying this thread too! I have fitted one of Richard Good's separators on my supercharged fuel injected car. I also understand I have the hoses reversed but so far so Good. It's mounted near the battery and looks way out of place. The drain from the bottom of the separator goes goes continuously downhill to the fuel pump block off plate.

    What I want to learn about is the use of PCV valves on some of these installs. Didn't notice any in the photos of this thread but have seen some added in other TR6 photos. What PCV valve are being used? Most valves are designed to be used in a vertical position as the plunger seats by gravity. Most even havea number on the plunger that equates with weight or maybe vacuum? The ones I've see on TR6's are mounted horizontally and from what I understand horizontal PCV valves are spring loaded.

    Hoping the wisdom of the List will set me straight.

    Rick Patton
    Brunswick, Maine
    75 TR6sci
    74 TVR project

    Leave a comment:


  • poolboy
    replied
    Here's Richard Good's solution for that. The PCV kit.
    http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=253
    You don't have to have the oil separator.
    But if it were me, I'd run the Valve Cover evacuation hose to the air cleaner housing, like other cars with SU's do it.

    Leave a comment:


  • bobs76
    replied
    if one is running SU's and they dont have a port to vent to...can the PCV pipe go from valve cover directly to the vacuum nipple on the intake manfold?

    Leave a comment:


  • nonstock72
    replied
    Shawn, I have been talking to some of the others :lol: and we have decided that we are going to pass a new law here on the forum..

    No engines as clean and as tidy as yours are allowed to be posted on the forum anymore.. Unless you provide bibs for all of us who are DROOLING on to our keyboards... :P

    just kidding. looks sharp
    Thanks Ron,

    I often hear comments about the engine bay and underside of the bonnet paint being as nice as the exterior. Especially when it is seen in person. Plenty of people's choice awards too as reinforcement.

    Believe it or not, it is not very hard to keep it clean. Only take a few minutes to do once a week or so. Keep ahead of it getting too dirty and it will always look like that when you lift the bonnet.


    BTW, would you like one of those cute little lobsters on your bib?

    Leave a comment:


  • poolboy
    replied
    I'm not surprised about the plugs. Before I broke down and overhauled the engine in Ol' Basil I was using about 1 Quart / 4-500 miles and you'd actually only see a puff between gear changes if you were following me and the plugs always looked great. But I know I wasn't leaking oil, just burning it.
    The valve guides in that old engine were still in spec at over 100k, but the oil control rings had lost temper and more or less compressed into the pistons.
    Bill, on the other hand, uses about 1 Q/ 900 miles and sends out smoke on start up only.
    So what you gonna do ? I'm sure not going to have the head reconditioned just for that.

    Leave a comment:


  • jzoll
    replied
    you're probably right, poolboy. The strange thing is - when the plugs are not fouled I have little or no oil smoke? But they are obviously being fouled with oil, so I may have to adopt your attitude afterall!

    Leave a comment:


  • poolboy
    replied
    I'm glad I read this post. My cars PO installed a TriumphTune alloy valve cover and auxiliary oil feed line. My car has the stock crankcase ventilation plumbing. My car is constantly fowling plugs and blowing oil at start-up and leaving traffic lights. Now I'm seriously considering installing the stock valve cover and removing the auxiliary feed line.
    You might get some improvement, but if you're getting smoke at start up, it's because oil has dripped down the valve stems and into the combustion chambers during the shut down, not because it was being sucked into the intake.
    You could always adopt my attitude about a bit too much annular space in the valve guides and think of it in a positive light. At least you know the valves are getting adequate lubrication and will probably never have a problem with valve seperation.

    Leave a comment:


  • HawaiiGuy
    replied
    Shawn, I have been talking to some of the others :lol: and we have decided that we are going to pass a new law here on the forum..

    No engines as clean and as tidy as yours are allowed to be posted on the forum anymore.. Unless you provide bibs for all of us who are DROOLING on to our keyboards... :P

    just kidding. looks sharp

    Leave a comment:


  • jzoll
    replied
    Thanks Shawn. In that case, I think I'll try removing the oil line first.

    Leave a comment:


  • nonstock72
    replied
    You don't have to do both. If you remove the auxillary oil line the TriumphTune cover should be fine. Or, if you put the stock cover back on the auxillary oil line can stay. That being said, if your goal is to return to more of a stock look, then remove them both.

    Leave a comment:

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