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  • #16
    What's on the inside of the separator, Bill; is it just baffles ?
    Driving a 1973 TR6
    Doing ZS carb repairs
    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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    • #17
      Just baffles. And the oil drops off the baffles and drains back into the sump.

      The other option is to bypass all this and just drop a hose down below the engine and let gravity and speed pull a vacuum on the engine. Keeps the frame rust proof but not exactly PC for pollution.

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      • #18
        It happened again today. For a temporary fix I used lung power, but when I got home I put the air compressor on the job.
        What's that commercial..Musinex ? That's what it reminded me of when the gobs of emuslsified oil came blowing out the bottom tap. If your PCV, improvised filter or whatever gets blocked by this kind of stuff, you can expect the same.
        I'm going to make blowin out that catch can part of my PM routine along with shakin my rear wheels from now on...
        Driving a 1973 TR6
        Doing ZS carb repairs
        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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        • #19
          It happened again today. For a temporary fix I used lung power, but when I got home I put the air compressor on the job.
          What's that commercial..Musinex ? That's what it reminded me of when the gobs of emulsified oil came blowing out the bottom tap. If your PCV, improvised filter or whatever gets blocked by this kind of stuff, you can expect the same.
          I'm going to make blowin out that catch can part of my PM routine along with shakin my rear wheels from now on...
          Is that the Goodparts separator?

          I have one in my car. But the way I installed it has exactly the same problem as your installation, it's on the wrong side of the car. Result, a long run of rather small-bore hose from the inlet, and poor suction. At high revs, I get a smell of oil, although no leaks afaik.

          Richard Good's pic show the can installed right by the bonnet catch, so it has a short run to the inlet manifold. This is how it needs to be. You/we have a long run with angle bends to the rocker box and the inlet, pretty useless really. Especially when you think that the more revs it's doing, the less suction it has.
          One of my winter jobs is to move it to the other side of the car, I think you might try the same.

          Ivor

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          • #20
            Thanks, Ivor. That is a lot of plumbing alright. I appreciate you telling me about experiencing the same sort of thing.
            TR6BILL built the engine so I can't say for sure that it's RG's but I bet it probably is.
            Until you brought up relocating the affair, I was considering doing away with it as a permanent solution. but now I may just have to wait and see how it turns out for you.
            If you think about it, would you put up a post after you've had some time with it in the new spot ? TIA.
            Driving a 1973 TR6
            Doing ZS carb repairs
            email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

            Comment


            • #21
              I decided to revisit this issue since the recent thread by Wolf and some of the related posts
              It seems like one thing that some had in common was the 'catch can', oil collector or oil separator.
              All of which required the addition of more plumbing from the Valve Cover to the Vacuum source.
              If you've ever immediately removed the oil filler cap from a thoroughly hot engine, you've probably seen a mist or vapor floating around the opening and under the valve cover.
              It is these same vapors that the vacuum source sucks as it attempts to relieve crankcase pressure.
              And therein lies the problem.
              The original design had these vapors drawn thru a fairly short hose into the manifold and combustion chambers in their vaporous state at the same time crankcase pressure was reduced.
              But as we added things like oil seperators, catch cans, or whatever you want to call them, along with feet of hoses, the vapors had a chance to cool and condense, forming the sludge like emulsion we've seen pictures of. Accumulation of the sludge restricts and in some cases blocks the plumbing, reducing the releif of crankcase pressure and oil is then pushed out of the sump onto various external places.
              Well. I for one have had enough and 'reverted' back to the original design..well almost.
              Auxillary rocker oil feed line= GONE
              RG Oil Separator and several feet of hoses=GONE
              Valve Cover Vent to ONE Carb= INSTALLED
              So far so good !
              BEFORE:

              AFTER:

              BEFORE:

              AFTER:
              Driving a 1973 TR6
              Doing ZS carb repairs
              email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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              • #22
                Scared me there PB - then I read the post.

                Dem Brit engineers weren't as bad as some people on here think yeah cher.

                Good for you......you kow me KISS

                Lou
                I72 Pimento w/overdrive

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                • #23
                  Spectacular engine bay, PB. I hope to breathe life into my 73 motor this weekend after 4 years of quiet...
                  Your photos are a big help referencing setup of hoses etc.

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                  • #24
                    Thanks airborne. It's good to hear that there'll soon be another one back on the road.
                    Lou , you know me, I'm not one to be buying some of that stuff in the first place. Well, since I bought the car, I guess you could say I did buy it, but you know what I mean.. Nothing against the vendors, heaven knows we need them, but some of the stuff we buy just make me wonder what it's all about. Are we really making the cars better and last longer or just into....well.. I guess I'd best not go there..
                    Driving a 1973 TR6
                    Doing ZS carb repairs
                    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      PB,

                      I'm going to follow your results on this topic, and I agree with airborne, your engine bay is second to none. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought a catch can was recommended if you also have one of the aftermarket alloy valve covers as the PO added to my 72. My 76 has the OEM valve cover (as your does) and I have no desire to add anything to it's 'plumbing'. I agree with the principle that sometimes less is more. I'm going to re-configure my 72's plumbing this weekend, I'll post later what I have up my sleeve. :shock:

                      Cheers,

                      Wolf
                      76 TR6 CF58170UO (The Lady)
                      72 TR6 CC80068UO (The Slut)
                      68 TR250 CD4893L (retirement project)

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                      • #26
                        I think the biggest difference between the two valve covers is the that the stock cover has a blocking plate so oil cannot enter it directly.

                        I have noticed some smoking at start up from traffic lights and the like since I switched to an alloy cover. I am thinking of rigging something like the stock cover in there, the trick is making sure it doesn't come off. to me the long lines to a catch can are just something to plug as PB has been finding.

                        Lou
                        I72 Pimento w/overdrive

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                        • #27
                          If you really want to eliminate any oil from your crank case in the combustion chamber, simple add a drag tube off the valve cover. The added benefit is your will rust-proof you undercarriage. That is the way some TR4's did it.

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                          • #28
                            Not really, I want to let the pressure out but not the oil. Coating the chassis is not something I want to do on purpose.

                            Lou
                            I72 Pimento w/overdrive

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                            • #29
                              Thank you, Wolf.
                              You may be right about the catch can. I believe I'd have to see if there were any side effects (like fouled spark plugs) when running without one before I installed one, knowing what I now know about what can happen with one.
                              If the major benefit is just oil conservation by returning some to the sump though, I'd have to pass.
                              Maybe Lou will address running an Aluminum VC without a catch can. I know one thing, his engine runs great and he drives it like a bat out of hell sometimes...
                              :lol: As you see I'm a slow typer... sorry I missed your post Lou..
                              Driving a 1973 TR6
                              Doing ZS carb repairs
                              email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                :lol: :lol: :lol:

                                You can barely see it in the picture, under the master tuner at work but it is just hooked up direct, I just get the occasional puff if it idles a while



                                Here is a better view, like the stock set up



                                Lou
                                I72 Pimento w/overdrive

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