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Blowin Smoke

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  • Blowin Smoke

    Just a little tale about what happened today to illustrate having proper crankcase ventillation.
    I decided to take Bill up to the hunting camp to see how my nephew was doing. It's about 40 miles up there. After going about 20 miles I began to smell burning oil. Since I had the valve cover off recently my thought was that I needed a little bit more torque on the nuts and some oil was dripping on the header. Figured no big deal, just wait until I got up there.
    I was hauling a$$ as it was and really got down on it a couple of times coming out of some sweeping curves. The smell got stronger when I did and a glance in the rearview showed me leaving a trail of smoke.
    I got kind P.O'd, but thought that since it started so suddenly that maybe, hopefully, I hadn't gone thru a set of rings.
    Well, when I got to the camp, I opened the bonnet, oil was coming out the valve cover and the dipstick as well as the exhaust pipes.
    Let me try one thing before I vomit. I pulled the valve cover vent tube off and gave it a good blow. At first I felt a little resistance and then it cleared.
    After visiting with my nephew, who had just missed the biggest buck he'd ever seen, I hit the road back toward home.
    I ran it hard, constantly looking for smoke and the smell. Maybe a little the first mile, but then all was good.
    Moral of the story. The ventillation of the crankcase via the low vacuum at the carbs is essential. Maybe there are other ways to accomplish it but I think that the boys at Coventry had it figured right.
    Call me relieved.
    Driving a 1973 TR6
    Doing ZS carb repairs
    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

  • #2
    Dear Relieved,

    Nice to hear a happy ending to that story!

    Yours truly,

    Better Educated For Reading This

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes, thanks for sharing. Every now and then I hear that that system ought to be plugged for better/smoother idle. Sounds like you have discovered its place on the ol' motor.

      Comment


      • #4
        That's why I posted the picture of how all my lines were run.

        Cars are just like humans. They need to be able to inhale and exhale or something will happen that is not pleasant either way.

        Comment


        • #5
          Wow! What a relief - from an engine overhaul to a minor blockage in the crankcase ventilation. Glad it worked out so well for you and thanks for the sharing the benefit of your expeience.

          Doug

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks PB for that info. I know many will want to add blowing theircars to their Winter lists.

            Comment


            • #7
              Once you get used to the idea, Jim, it's not so bad.
              Driving a 1973 TR6
              Doing ZS carb repairs
              email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

              Comment


              • #8
                PB:

                Now you have to look for leaks. That pressure can push out lower end gaskets. :cry:

                Comment


                • #9
                  You thinking crankshaft seals, Al ?
                  Driving a 1973 TR6
                  Doing ZS carb repairs
                  email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    PB unless I'm missing something, what was in there? Or do you want to know?

                    Rob

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                    • #11
                      Not really sure, Rob. My guess is it was some kind of glob made up of oil and condensation.
                      Driving a 1973 TR6
                      Doing ZS carb repairs
                      email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        PB, I'm a bit confused.

                        Did you blow from the direction of the valve cover toward the carbs/cannister, or from the carbs toward the valve cover?

                        I think you described toward the carbs/cannister...
                        '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
                        Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
                        Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
                        Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
                        Redlines always.
                        My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          There's the problem, right there. Next time you should try sucking
                          I'm really not that interesting...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Funny, Alan. :roll:
                            Harris I pulled the hose off the valve cover and blew into the hose.
                            But whatever I blew (this is sounding awful) didn't go back into the carbs/manifold because Bill has this collector/separator type canister plumbed between the valve cover and the carb nipple.
                            Here's a couple of pictures; maybe you can follow the routing. It's fairly complex and I know these pictures don't show that there is a line from the bottom of the canister back to the sump.

                            And:
                            Driving a 1973 TR6
                            Doing ZS carb repairs
                            email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              That oil separator may be gunked up. Might have to take it off and soak in gasoline then rinse well.

                              Try using an air gun on the hoses, disconnected of course. I doubt they are clogged. They are all new right before 'Bill' left home.

                              Comment

                              Blowin Smoke

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