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  • LED turn signals

    I plan to switch to LED turn signals. I see that Moss supplies the bulbs, electronic flasher unit, and ballasts, for the change to LED. Any words of advice before I get to work on this? Do I need to install ballasts when changing brake lights, as well as when changing the turn signal bulbs?

  • #2
    Ballast resistors are apparently still required because of the way the dash turn signal indicator light is wired. It's a shame, since the ballasts at least partially negate one of the main reasons to go to LEDs in the first place. You shouldn't need them on any other lights.

    Some minor rewiring of the indicator circuit could eliminate the need for the ballasts.

    Ed
    For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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    • #3
      post 8 is what I did... as many have issues getting LED TS to work .

      They had another solution to the ballast resistor install


      https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr6...0/#msg-1643930
      Bruce
      1974 base TR6 Emerald Green "Emmy"
      (with J-O/D added)

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      • #4
        I switched my rear turn signals to LEDs, since I figured that's where they were most needed. Can't recall where I got them, but they're super bright. No other electrical modification needed. Since I was still running the relatively dim front turn signals, and I have a pair of LED DRLs set into the front grille, I wired each DRL to blink in sync with the respective front turn signal. I'm sure white turn signals aren't kosher, but since they're additional to, rather than instead of, the standard yellow signals, the worst that can happen is that they should draw attention to the fact that my front signal is blinking
        Dave C
        '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
        Chapel Hill NC

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        • #5
          A picture is worth a thousand words...so you get lots of words with this answer..Sorry in advance.

          I posted the solution here on the previous webserver, but the images did not transfer. I will try to find the PDF showing the required (and reversable) change to the wire harness. I think I have pictures too.
          Keep in mind the following applies to the earlier (69-71) cars. I did not examine the later wiring diagram to ensure compatibility.

          I had complete success switching to LED signals with very few/reversable changes...no ballasts required! Earlier this year I also performed the same solution on my father-in-law's TR, so it is no fluke.

          In his instance, we did have to replace the turn-signal switch because his was internally too dirty (too much metal dust from old age). The electrical load is so light that the wear/metal dust inside my FILs TS stalk/switch caused both sides to flash at the same time. Basically, the switch shorted out internally when used. No amount of flushing with contact cleaner fixed his. My TS switch is only fifteen years old. After much research, I found this to be a common problem on older GM cars too.

          Required parts in addition to the LED lights:
          A roughly six-foot lead, a nine-inch lead, and purchasing a 3-tab electronic flasher. Oh, and two single-barrel connectors (four if you choose to replace the double-barrel connectors with singles; read below).

          The flasher is required to run the TS LED lights because the LEDs don't load the original flasher enough to make it flash. The ballasts are required to add more load ONLY if you choose not to replace the TS relay. The wiring parts are for isolating the TS indicator from the car's harness.

          In a nutshell, the TS indicator straddles the right side turnsignals and the left side turnsignals by connecting the TS indicator light socket to each side via two double-barrelled connectors. This is up under the dash where the TS stalk/switch plugs into the harness (the other connections in each of the double-barrel connectors).

          For each double-barrel connector, there will be three wires. One is from the turnsignal stalk/switch, one goes to the TS indicator, and one goes to the turn signals. One socket in the double-barrel connector remains unused/empty.

          Work one side of the car at a time.
          Identifying each bullet connector/wire is easy as long as the wire is re-connected before checking the next one:
          Disconnecting the TS stalk/switch keeps that side of the car from flashing, including the TS indicator.
          Disconnecting the TS lamps bullet keeps the TS lamps from ligjting at each corner but allows the TS indicator to keep working.
          Disconnecting the TS indicator bullet keeps the indicator from flashing, but the TS lamps at each corner still work. MARK THIS BULLET!
          Now do the same for the other side of the car.

          You should now have two wires in each double-bullet connector...the TS stalk/switch and the relevant side TS lamps. This is where I replaced the double-barrel connectors with singles.

          Now the LED turnsignals will work just fine...no ballast required. However, the TS indicator is no longer connected, and effectively isolated from the TS circuit.

          The 3-tab flasher relay and the removable/reversable leads mentioned above is what restores TS indicator function/operation.
          The six foot lead with female spade on one end connects to the output (Indicator tab) of the flasher. A bullet and single-barrel connector on the other end gets attached to one of the TS indicator leads marked and disconnected earlier.
          The 9-inch lead has a ring terminal that gets grounded under a bolt (I used one of the column mounting bolts), and a bullet and single-barrel connector attaches to the remaining TS indicator lead.

          That's it! Now enjoy brighter LED lighting, reduced alternator loads,


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          • #6
            For those coming to TRials 2019 in St. Louis, note that https://www.superbrightleds.com is located a few minutes from the hotel and car show. Order LEDs online and pickup within 30 minutes and avoid shipping.

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            • #7
              I installed new bulbs all around (and an electronic flasher) from a UK supplier https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/ (and https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/car-kits) and did not have to make any wiring changes. They're responsive to email questions as well. They're all really bright (which is why I made the change)!
              NFI
              Last edited by Derekmcallister; 10-01-2019, 06:37 PM.
              Derek McAllister
              Toronto
              ’74 Sapphire blue CF22200U
              Fan Eliminator. ZS Carbs (my rebuild)
              Poly Bushings, RG Trailing Arm Brackets.
              Gear Reduction Starter, Points(!),
              due for a rebuild (98k mi, lotsa oil leaks & consumption)

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              • #8
                https://bowtie6.com/led-lights-for-a-triumph-tr6/

                This where I got the bulb list.

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                LED turn signals

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