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Door window glass attachment to channel

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  • Door window glass attachment to channel

    The passenger window came out of the attachment track. I tried using clear silicon adhesive to reattach but it did not hold the glass and it came out again. What is the best adhesive to use if this is not good ???? I may have not used as much of the adhesive as I could have if this is the right product, the glazing strip is good to reuse and I don't want to do this gluing again, the holes for the door panels clips are getting tattered. Thanks in advance.
    Elliott TRVI

  • #2
    Estage, your terminology is a bit confusing I'm not sure what your are trying to glue where. If you could post a picture or perhaps go to The Moss or Roadster Factory catalogues and use their terminology we might could help a bit more.

    3M makes a polyurethane windshield glass adhesive that is available at auto paint stores that I've had good luck with and is meant specifically to glue stuff to glass. Maybe that will do what you need.
    ‘70 TR-6

    Comment


    • #3
      Neddie:

      I think Estage may be asking a similar question to one that I have myself:

      I am preparing to attach the lower window channels (Moss 803-235 + 805-245) to the bottoms of the door glass (R + L). I have new glazing strips (Moss 680-845) and am wondering where I should be appling the adhesive?

      Should adhesive be applied between the glass and the glazing strip, between glazing strip and the channel, or in both areas?

      My old ones are so dried out, it is hard to tell where the adhesive originally was.

      Comment


      • #4
        I used weatherstrip adhesive on both sides of the glazing Matthew. The new glazing didn?t appear to be thick enough to get a good wedge fit. Originally, I think it was the glazing alone that held the window.

        Comment


        • #5
          If you are using the Moss glazing strips (680-845), you don't need any additional adhesive. The first picture is me removing a window that I put in ~2 1/2 years ago. It wouldn't budge until it was heated for ~ 3 minutes with a very hot heat gun.

          When you install the window, fold the new glazing strip over the glass and heat it until you can flatten it out on the glass. You will then need to heat the channel and the glazing strip for probably 3 minutes or so. Use an oven mitt to hold the channel just over the glazing strip and heat them both at the same time, you'll have to work back and forth over the entire length of the channel.

          Once it's hot enough, you can get the channel started over the glazing strip. You might be able to force it all the way to the seated position, but don't be afraid to use a rubber mallet if needed.

          I installed a clear vinyl rain shield in mine, something like they were originally. It would probably adhere even better without it.







          It's going to be hot, but squeeze it together:








          EDIT:
          The Victoria British glazing strips are nothing but hard rubber, I think someone mentioned TRF's are the same. TheMoss strips are a gummy rubber that will form to the needed shape and gets sticky when heated.
          R3
          Jim Herter Copperas Cove, TX
          Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 ֎ CC 50990 LO
          VDU 506H

          Comment


          • #6
            Thank you very much Scott and Jim. You guys are awesome!

            I am using the Moss strips.

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            • #7
              I installed mine exactly as Jim did on his. I never had a problem and at the same time, I do not recommend any adhesive. I would remove as much of the silicone off the parts before you redo the job. The silicone remnants would act as a lubricant.

              Comment


              • #8
                Matthew, the stuff I was referring to is the polyurethane that is used in modern cars to glue the windshield to the frame. You might could use it to replace the glazing strip, but I think the technique that Jim shows is the way to go here. Windshields are glued from one side and the poly can be scraped off the frame when the glass needs replacing. I imagine you would have a heck of a time getting the poly and remaining bits of glass out of the channel if you ever had to replace the window.

                I did, however, use some poly to glue on a new plastic rain shield when I redid my doors. It came from the factory tucked into the channel as Jim shows, but I didn't want to remove my channels just to put in new plastic, so I glued it. Don't know how long it will last as it peels off fairly easily. But since I don't plan on driving in the rain I don't really care. Not that it rains in CA anyway, at least not anytime in the last 4 years....
                ‘70 TR-6

                Comment


                • #9
                  Tonight while installing the 4th window in last few years, I finally found just the right position to get the rollers started into the channels without a struggle and then work the regulator into position with ease.

                  Before I insert the window into the door I have always installed the outer rubber waist seal with the seven clips. Doing this before the window goes in allows you to start the clips over the waist seal by reaching in and pushing them on by hand. It's a tight fit passing the window with channel attached past the waist seal, but it can be done, go slow and keep the seal from getting caught with a putty knife.

                  This last time, I installed the two aft and one forward inner fuzzy seal clips before inserting the window. They are far enough out of the way that the channel won't catch on them.



                  Once I had the window in and engaged in the tracks, I raised it up high and inserted a screwdriver through the rear hole of the upper window stop.



                  In that position, it is easy to start the two rollers into the channel tracks at the same time from the rear of the channel. This is where I struggled some in the past, usually moving the regulator and the window around trying to get them started. Sometimes I'd get one started and then fight to get the other one in.



                  Once the rollers are engaged in the tracks you can work the winding mechanism into place. If it doesn't go into place, pull it back and attach the handle or a socket to the mechanism and crank it a bit one way or the other and retry. Repeat the previous step until the winding mechanism is close to where it should be. Small adjustments after it's close can be done through the mechanism opening until the bolts can be started.

                  You can now move the idler into place, cranking the winding mechanism as necessary.

                  R3
                  Jim Herter Copperas Cove, TX
                  Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 ֎ CC 50990 LO
                  VDU 506H

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    i got it window are in thank you for your time and help

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Regarding the rollers on the window glass winder, do your rollers actually turn? Mine have a spring washer between the rollers and the winder arm, and they don't turn freely.
                      I have cleaned the mechanism, but they still don't turn easily enough for my satisfaction. Apparently they slide well enough with greasing, but I just wonder.
                      I have just completed replacing the channel linings with fuzzy velcro, and I didn't like that job either! I don't know if they should be, but the brackets were held on with fiddly little screws
                      that my fingers didn't handle well. I attached the brackets last, so had to punch holes for the screws in the velcro liner.
                      Regarding the glazing strip, my windows showed evidence of some glue along with the thick glazing strip. This may have been an earlier repair, I don't know.
                      The glazing strip is available from Restoration Specialties, but not in the correct thickness. Plus, the shipping runs the cost up-Moss seems to be the way to go.
                      Dennis

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My rollers don't turn the window just slides over them know I might put some super lube on there that might help but I just see the windows sliding over those rollers

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You might check MacGregor's for the various seals, trim pieces, gaskets, etc. Don't try to order from their web site. Call and chat with the owner. Really is a delightful, knowledgeable, helpful man. And I felt the prices were reasonable. Altho my parts sitting in US customs around Thanksgiving was a pain. I don't imagine it's that way all the time.

                          http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/category/TR6.html

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Note: This was originally post # 9 above. I was unable to edit Post 9 to insert missing text and picture lost in the migration.

                            Tonight while installing the 4th window in last few years, I finally found just the right position to get the rollers started into the channels without a struggle and then work the regulator into position with ease.

                            Before I insert the window into the door I have always installed the outer rubber waist seal with the seven clips. Doing this before the window goes in allows you to start the clips over the waist seal by reaching in and pushing them on by hand. It's a tight fit passing the window with channel attached past the waist seal, but it can be done, go slow and keep the seal from getting caught with a putty knife.

                            This last time, I installed the two aft and one forward inner fuzzy seal clips before inserting the window. They are far enough out of the way that the channel won't catch on them.



                            Once I had the window in and engaged in the tracks, I raised it up high and inserted a screwdriver through the rear hole of the upper window stop.



                            In that position, it is easy to start the two rollers into the channel tracks at the same time from the rear of the channel. This is where I struggled some in the past, usually moving the regulator and the window around trying to get them started. Sometimes I'd get one started and then fight to get the other one in.



                            Once the rollers are engaged in the tracks you can work the winding mechanism into place. If it doesn't go into place, pull it back and attach the handle or a socket to the mechanism and crank it a bit one way or the other and retry. Repeat the previous step until the winding mechanism is close to where it should be. Small adjustments after it's close can be done through the mechanism opening until the bolts can be started.

                            You can now move the idler into place, cranking the winding mechanism as necessary.



                            Now you can install the remaining fuzzy seal clips and push the fuzzy seal into place.
                            Last edited by RatRidgeRoadster; 09-10-2018, 09:56 PM.
                            R3
                            Jim Herter Copperas Cove, TX
                            Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 ֎ CC 50990 LO
                            VDU 506H

                            Comment

                            Door window glass attachment to channel

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